Biver is a niche brand by design. Their attention to detail and fully hand-finished production processes mean quantities are low and exclusivity is high. It leads to them being the centre of conversation among watch enthusiasts. However, having such an intense magnifying glass on your brand isn’t always helpful because the maximalist design of their debut collection, the Carillon Tourbillon, wasn’t received particularly well. However, in a classic case of swings and roundabouts, their follow up model – the Automatique – was largely celebrated for its style. Now, Biver have taken the success of the Automatique and used it to ‘fix’ the Carillon Tourbillon by launching the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series.
In as simple terms as possible, they’ve taken the aesthetic style of the Automatique and applied it to the Carillon Tourbillon. That means it features a retro, sector display with a combination of vertical and circular brushed finishing. Sitting atop the dial are delicately facetted hour markers in white gold. The display really feels like an ode to fine finishing because it is utterly immaculate, a less-is-more approach that goes the opposite direction of previous Carillon Tourbillon pieces, which weren’t exactly restrained.
One of the major ways they’ve displayed that restraint is to completely cover the tourbillon at 6 o’clock. As founder Jean-Claude Biver notes, “this is a new expression of that complication that perfectly embodies Biver watchmaking as our brand continues to grow and evolve.” That evolution obviously leaning in a less ostentatious direction that has the confidence not to shout about its haute horological complications, thinking that’s served watchmakers like Laurent Ferrier very well over the years. Indeed, the only visual indicator that separates the Carillon Tourbillon Signature and the Automatique is the presence of the minute repeater control on the case at 8 o’clock.
Speaking of the case, there are two editions of the watch available. The first is a titanium edition with full titanium case and mono-silver tone dial and then there’s a bi-metallic edition in a combination of rose gold and titanium. It’s unusual to see titanium used in such a high-end watch, especially a tourbillon minute repeater, as it’s a material most commonly associated with performance and tool watches. Though as the Carillon Tourbillon does measure 42mm, which is very large for a dress watch and a full 3mm larger than the Automatique, titanium does help to offset some of the weight.
It’s also a combination of technical and precious that not only falls in line with the more recent Automatique Atelier Series in yellow gold and carbon, but with Jean-Claude Biver’s history with Hublot. If you see rubber and gold paired together, you largely have him to thank.
Mechanically, the new watch is identical to its predecessors, housing the JCB-001-B automatic movement with micro-rotor. It features a 72-hour power reserve, which is very solid for a tourbillon and minute repeater watch, since those complications can be power intensive. Though the standout feature is again the hand-finishing, the lavish attention to detail on each of the 374 components. It’s really this, in conjunction with the limited quantities and high-end complications that skyrockets the prices.
The Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series, in either variant, is priced at CHF 475,000 (approx. £432,000). If you want, there’s even a matching set of cufflinks to go with them. It’s clear from this release that Biver are paying attention to the feedback and response from their clients and enthusiasts, which is a very positive thing. I just hope that they don’t fall into the trap of only producing a single style of watch and becoming too homogenised; every watchmaker should stretch their wings and explore new avenues.
Price and Specs:
More details at Biver.
Even before I delved into the detailed review, I new from the name Biver, that this was naturally going to showcase something expensive, but, nearly half a million GBP, for a watch, hard to believe that there are enough sqillionaires out there that are prepared to drop that amount of money on a single watch.
The comment “It’s clear from this release that Biver are paying attention to the feedback and response from their clients and enthusiasts”, is almost as preposterous as the the price, – are there really that many people able and prepared to spend that sum on (admittedly a beautiful and technically supreme example), but it’s still a watch at the end of the day.
Even my ultimate grail list watch is nowhere near that price, thank goodness for the likes of Longines, JLC etc.