Hands On Horology 2025 - Early Bird Tickets Live

Watches

Watch of the Week: Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar “Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac”

Chopard LUC Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac

It doesn’t matter whether you consider it pandering to a market or a respectful interpretation of cultural heritage, any watch that can eloquently express the intricacies of the Chinese Zodiac is impressive. It’s a difficult element to work with, from both design and technical perspectives. When your canvas is a Chopard LUC however, things get a little easier.

The haute horology branch of Chopard have created some spectacular pieces over the years and that expertise shows in the LUC Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac Unique Piece.

Chopard LUC Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac

It’s almost as much a mouthful to say as it is an eyeful to see. With its Greco-Roman touches on the bezel and black and gold colourway you could be forgiven for seeing a good deal of Versace in the piece. Fortunately, that’s about as far as that horological comparison goes.

The ‘base’ watch if you could call it that is a stunning perpetual calendar showing days and months and date on the dial amid a dial like a dark hedge maze.

Chopard LUC Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac

Because now unique piece is complete without a tourbillon, that’s also present at six o’clock. Despite all those power-draining complications though, there’s a week-long power reserve thanks to the LUC’s Quattro system which is nothing short of miraculous.

So far so technically impressive. But what sets this above the other perpetual calendars out there? Well, turn the watch on its side and you’ll see. All 12 Zodiac signs have been painstakingly engraved around the edges of the watch, with hollows carved and then filled in with black lacquer for a magnificent contrast. It’s the same technique that gives the bezel its Versace makeover and is just something else.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon “Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac”

It doesn’t matter why this watch was made or who for, but there’s no denying that between Chopard’s signature LUC watchmaking and the flawless – not to mention rare – craftsmanship, the Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac really is a unique piece.

Price: $264,380 USD (roughly £199,000), more details at Chopard.

About the author

Sam Kessler

Legend has it that Sam’s first word was ‘escapement’ and, while he might have started that legend himself, he’s been in the watch world long enough that it makes little difference. As the editor of Oracle Time, he’s our leading man for all things horological – even if he does love yellow dials to a worrying degree. Owns a Pogue; doesn’t own an Oyster Perpetual. Yet.