There are a lot of watches that could be considered H. Moser & Cie.’s signature model. The Streamliner could easily claim that title with its unique style of integrated bracelet. Or one of their quirkier pieces like the Swiss Alp or Vanta Black. But that raises the question, what does it mean to be a signature watch. To me it means to be the first watch people think of and when it comes to H. Moser the first thing people think is awesome fumé dial and nowhere is that more evident than on the Pioneer Tourbillon, now available in a Burgundy edition.
The Pioneer is ostensibly H. Moser’s sports watch collection by their own definition and description, though I’m not sure who exactly is looking at these incredibly refined, elegant watches and thinking, yes, that’s the watch I’ll go hiking in. But to give them their due, they have made sure that should you wish to go on said adventure, the watch should be absolutely fine with 120m water resistance to protect it from any rain or unceremonious spills into a river. Even with its 40mm red gold case. Though it’s not the most extreme aquatically inclined gold case of recent years due to Rolex’s mad 3,900m full gold Deepsea.
However, the key feature of this updated model is the fresh colour on the dial. It’s a rich burgundy fumé, hence the model being the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy. Fumé is a style of gradient that starts light in the centre of the dial and transitions to a darker colour around the periphery of the display, giving the piece a smoky aesthetic. Which is apt because fumé in French translates to smoke. H. Moser have truly mastered the technique as the Pioneer Tourbillon is now available with teal, green and burgundy fumé examples.
Occupying a large portion of the dial at 6 o’clock is the tourbillon. Originally designed by Abraham Louis Breguet in the 1800s, it’s designed to keep the watch’s balance spring in constant motion, offsetting the affects of gravity on the accuracy of the watch. Although as many collectors will tell you, just by wearing your watch on your wrist you achieve more or less the same effect as tourbillons were originally designed for pocket watches that stay in the same position all day. As such, in modern watches, tourbillons are technically more decorative elements than practical ones, which is fine because they do look amazing in motion.
The tourbillon here is part of the HMC 805 automatic calibre. A seriously impressive movement with a 72-hour power reserve despite the power intensive tourbillon. It’s finished as immaculately as the dial with a skeletonised rotor, striped finishing and golden inlay on the brand’s logo.
Between the golden elements and the rich burgundy colour, there’s something very royal about this watch. It almost feels Germanic like a relic of the Prussian empire or something – although maybe that’s because my mind is erroneously conflating burgundy with Prussian violet. As for the price, it might as well be a treasure at CHF 59,900 (approx. £53,200).
Price and Specs:
More details at H. Moser & Cie.
So, as an add-on.
This is the very combination of colour and case finish that I suggested that Longines should have used for their “year of the snake” watch and at a cost that would be more realistic than the H Moser & Circa version.
So, note to Longines, I would be very happy to act in the capacity of design critique and brand ambassador.
Beautiful, beautiful watch. But, as Michael states, it’s not really a sports or field watch, despite the rubberised strap, and, at circa £50k, who in their right mind would wear it in outdoorsy events where damage is more likely, so, scrap the strap, and add a leather band and call it what it really is, a dress watch.
The chosen combination of graduated burgundy within a red gold case is perfect. Yes, it’s a tourbillion so visible movement is “a given” but for me is not needed, the beauty is the dial colour and red gold case, but, the cost, I need not comment further, other than to say that the makers name alone dictates this level of cost (unfortunately for the normal man in the street, even with impeccable taste).