Martin Design Supernatural Tonaros
After getting hands on with Martin Design’s Supernatural Triskel over Christmas, I can confirm that they’re well made and bags of fun. The Supernatural Tonaros is a lot more refined in its looks thanks to its frosted salmon, multi-layered dial. It also has the characteristic asymmetrical regulator display of the collection which adds a lot of charm and whimsy to the piece. Which is fitting because each of the core models in the collection is named after an old Celtic deity.
For example Tonaros is the god of thunder so the textured golden tone of the salmon dial makes sense. Powering the regulator display is the Miyota 82S7, one of the Japanese manufactures more obscure references though still with a 42-hour power reserve.
Price and Specs:
More details at Martin Design.
Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte Purist
The Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte (DUG) Purist wristwatch is available in two variations. The Typ 1 (that’s not a spelling error typ is German for type) has a minimalist array of baton hour markers while the Typ 2 swaps those out for a combination of Arabic numerals alongside batons at the cardinal points. Beyond the change in hour markers, the two Typs are identical with ultra-clean cases measuring 40mm in diameter with smooth bezels and large, fluted crowns.
There are also a couple of colours available but by far the best is the Königsblau with its blue fumé. Beneath the surface is the DUG 400 calibre, which is a base Sellita 400 that’s decorated and finished in Glashütte.
Price and Specs:
More details at DUG.
Eoniq Signature Cornwall
Eoniq are a watch design and calibre manufacture who have revolutionised watchmaking in Hong Kong. They have brought the complete elements of design, production and assembly into the city so that for the first time in history a watch movement can receive the Hong Kong Certificate of Origin, essentially the ‘Made in Hong Kong’ equivalent to ‘Made in Switzerland’.
The movement in question is the manual Calibre 852, which can be found in the sleek integrated bracelet sports watch Eoniq Signature Cornwall. It measures 40mm in steel with a skeletonised display showing the inner workings of the movement. The skeletonization has a lovely fluidity to its lines.
Price and Specs:
More details at Eoniq.
Paradisi RP 02 Titanium Grade
Paradisi’s new RP 02 Titanium Grade uses grade 23 titanium for its case, which has better corrosion resistance than other grades and also better ‘human compatibility’ whatever that means. It’s a simple design that will impressively dive to 1000m if you want it to. As you’d expect from a dive watch that serious it has substantial presence on the wrist with a diameter of 43mm, but it shouldn’t be overwhelmingly heavy due to the lightweight properties of titanium – ah, perhaps that is the human compatibility?
One of the most striking design choices is to go for a completely plain, brushed bezel sans diving scale, similar to the Heron Marinor Ghost. It’s an unconventional decision but one that really makes the watch stick in your mind after you’ve seen it.
Price and Specs:
More details at Paradisi.
PS Horology Tsuba Blue
With a case shape inspired by a samurai sword guard, tsuba, the famous British watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin’s latest creation is high end and inspired by Asia. Specifically, the design of the watch is a hybrid between two popular style of tsuba, the octagon and the quince. Essentially the 38.3mm case is an irregular octagon that places huge emphasis on four of the sides in the same way that the quince shape (named after the fruit) has four sections.
That’s then paired with an integrated bracelet for a bold appearance that could be straight from the 80s. The dial is also an interesting fusion of vintage and modern design codes. Powering the piece is the Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier calibre 5401 with micro-rotor. In a limited edition of 100 pieces and a price tag approaching 20k, this is the type of watch that makes you ask where the line between microbrand and independent really sits.
Price and Specs:
More details at PS Horology.
the glashutte is an excellent entry level tool watch…. budget minded (most of us) as it achieves the right balance between taste and tooliness. And reads more expensive than it is.
You have not add a very good microbrand which made a special watch in end of 2024.
Monarte is perfect and desrves your attention.
Thanks
I love collecting watches, especially the rarest old collections of German and French makes
A great “across the board” review (both in terms of watch styles and price range).
I normally don’t go for integrated case / bracelet combinations, but the watch from PS Horology (technically having a semi integrated combo), did hit the button for me. Just the right balance in terms of form without being too sharp at the corners etc, but, due to the Tsuba shape of the case, no actual corners are present. (You really need to hit the link to the website to get into the detail of that feature, whilst interesting, it’s all a bit too highbrow in an art critical manner for my taste). Anyway, the manufacturing and polishing of the case involves many processes therefore adds to the price!
What does surprise me, (particularly as the price point of the Tsuba blue, is £17,300), is the design of the dial, for me, this is the feature that lets it down, – it’s a bit Big-Ben ISH (but that’s my personal viewpoint). I think they should have made more of the far eastern origins. Again, referencing the website, the Don Son variant, has a dial that is the very opposite, it is too fussy (yes, again, it’s all related to the far eastern artistry of ancient weaponry and art), but the price of that isn’t even listed, so, as both are limited edition watches, the cost points are mega, and only for wealthy collectors.
If you go for the Don Son, the sailcloth strap in the clay colour, makes the case shape more impactful.
So, not a watch that I would be lusting after. If I did have that budget available, then that would fund two watches from my personal grail list (without knowing the cost of the Don Son, that budget would probably pay for all three watches on my grail list).
In conclusion, price prohibitive, dials let it down, despite the near perfect case design.