It’s not been a bad year in watches. Sure, there haven’t been a huge number of headline-grabbingly awesome timepieces, but it’s been solid. There have been lots of holes in collections filled, new dial variations on classic watches and a few different sizes to offer collectors more choice, all the less exciting stuff that most of us actually buy. That’s made it particularly hard to pick my favourite watches of the year and in all honesty, narrowing it down has been an exercise in second guessing myself. Still, with a mix of fun accessibility and classic forever watches, if I were to own a five-watch collection, I’d be more than happy with these.
Christopher Ward Dune Shoreline
Let’s start with my favourite watch of the entire year, not just because it’s undeniably cool – even if I do say so myself – but because it was our first ever collaboration. And what a collab! The only more iconic British brand in watches than Christopher Ward is Oracle Time, so it made perfect sense, as did taking the name of CW’s field watch, the Dune, literally with a sandy dial that stands up (and surpasses) the usual dive watch waves. I’m a huge fan of monochrome too so the full silver look, that gorgeous three-dimensional dial and the hints of sky blue make this an absolute stunner. Unfortunately (for you, not us) it’s sold out. But keep your eye out for more unique limited editions watches in future.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding 39
Less is more when it comes to dress watches and the 50s was an era of perfection in that regard. I wish Vacheron would get the memo a bit more – their huge number of metiers d’art releases don’t exactly smack of minimalism – but at least the Patrimony nails the look. A pink gold case, simple silver dial and pearl indexes, this is the kind of watch so rooted in historical elegance that it’s a forever watch, something that’ll never leave your collection. It’s been in style for 75 years and will remain so for another 75. This 2024 version in that perfect goldilocks size is just the age-old formula perfected.
More details at Vacheron Constantin.
Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ Phantom No App
The Fifty Phantoms is in my opinion the best thing Seconde Seconde has done, which, given how prolific Romaric is these days, is saying something. But then came the No-App, an inversion of the most collectible Fifty Fathoms around. It doubles down on the punny design, throws in a nod to a specific historical model and dresses it all in purple. Is it a strange beast? For sure, but as someone that owns a custom Seiko with ‘Fifty-Five Fathoms’ proudly emblazoned on the dial, this watch is built for me, specifically. Plus it’s one of the few on this list I can afford easily enough.
More details at Spinnaker.
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Swimming Pool
I love colour and this year there’s been no shortage of bright, vibrant dials to satiate my ostentatious appetite. Of the lot, there’s something about the swimming pool blue of the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama date that really speaks to me. The watermelon version is cool too, but the blue can be seen a mile off and looks killer in that TV-shaped case. Paired with a handsome, considered chronograph layout – complete with that titular oversized date – it’s still a serious slice of German haute horology, just a bit more fun than your average Lange. Oh, and if you call it Tiffany blue you will not see the light of heaven.
More details at Glashütte Original.
Carl F. Bucherer Heritage WorldTimer
I started with monochrome so I’ll finish with monochrome. Carl F. Bucherer’s an underrated brand at the best of times but here they’re paired with understated in the cleanest worldtimer of the year. I love worldtimers; I hate atlas dials. That leaves me with fewer choices than I’d like. The Heritage Worldtimer is pared-back, easy to read and elegant in equal measure. The dual crowns, unusually one each side, allow you to operate the worldtimer independently from the local time, always useful and the fine-link bracelet is comfortable and nails the retro look of the Heritage collection. Yes, it’s not as flashy as some watches that stand out from 2024, but in a year of quiet luxury and smart revamps, it’s a natural fit.
More details at Carl F. Bucherer.
22nd. Dec. Edinburgh, I. Would. Love. One. Of. Your WATCHES
“The only more iconic British brand in watches than Christopher Ward is Oracle Time”. LOL.
Change my mind 😜 in all seriousness, it was a great collab. Good thing we have plenty more in the pipeline!
Another great review from Sam. I guess it’s an almost impossible task to choose only 5 watches from all of the examples that must pass through your hands. All have specific features that we either love or prefer not to see on a watch.
Interesting to note that the Carl F Bucherer World Timer appears in the favourites list of both Sam and Michael Sonsino in their latest reviews. I can applaud them both on their impeccable choice, despite my preference for vintage watches, I too would choose the Bucherer as a particular favourite, this has become one of my personal grail watches to hopefully add to my collection of funds ever permit.
Whilst I do like colour on a watch face, it tends to be muted, however, the Glashutte Panorama Swimming Pool definitely stands out. The overall TV shape with cool curve form makes a statement in its own right, the colour is down to personal choice. The curvature makes the whole watch look well defined and no doubt smaller than it’s actual size, the form of the leading edge partially protecting the crown is well executed with the Chrono pushers being semi recessed gives the whole form a natural flow, rather than the more common rod style pusher that some makers prefer to use.
I note that Sam also likes the Christopher Ward Dune Shoreline. Another fine watchmaker, the rippled sand effect looks great, and a pity that this edition is already sold out. I know the Christopher Ward watch I’m about to list pre-dates the year of 2024 (which is the title of the review), but my choice would be the C1 Moonglow. (Another grail listing for me).
Each year brings many new offerings, can’t wait to see what 2025 brings.
Cheers Dezza. Honestly, this was the hardest editorial choice of the year! Five watches only? Madness! And yes, may be a bit biased towards the Shoreline, but how could I not include our first collab? That dial came out far too nicely not to!
Hi Sam,
Firstly, a happy new year to you and all at Oracle Time.
Many thanks for taking the time to reply to my comments.
Difficult to choose just 5 as we said.
I’m looking forward to further reviews throughout 2025. – if you need any assistance from the typical man in the street, then I am that man.
Like your choice. Right measure of classy, casual an funky!
Thanks! I do try to keep things balanced – you have to have a well rounded collection! Means there’s always an excuse to get another…