How Has Britain’s Tailoring Capital Savile Row Adapted to Life Post-Pandemic?

When the pandemic broke in March 2020, Savile Row was already in a precarious situation. The street was quiet, and, most crucially, empty. Legendary tailoring houses were closing down, footfall was at an all-time low, and the allure of this historic street, which is known around the world for crafting the finest bespoke tailoring you could ever bespeak, was being threatened by the reconfiguring of the male wardrobe. Julian Stocks, Property Director of The Pollen Estate, which owns most of Savile Row, says it had “been in a perfect storm with Brexit uncertainty, supply issues, VAT changes, changing retail habits, and finally Covid lockdowns and travel bans.”

In many ways, though, you could argue that it was a blessing for Savile Row, as its portfolio has been on the receiving end of a serious case of diversification with newly-opened lifestyle, womenswear and streetwear offerings that have done the street wonders in creating a new buzz. Adding to that, the pandemic ignited a renewed sense of interest in craft-based brands with a human connection to counteract the scarily fast-paced and digitised world we live in. Legends have jubilantly returned, and regular pop-ups are keeping things interesting. It is, by all accounts, flourishing, and 2022 will be one of the best years it’s had in decades.

Drake’s, 9 Savile Row

Just before we were all locked-down, menswear’s favourite brand Drake’s opened on Savile Row and injected an overdue dose of conviviality into the street through its contemporary and tailored clothing. “I often think people who are newly introduced to us are pleasantly surprised to find that we are not an intimidating luxury brand. Our clothes are fun and enjoyable to wear while also being made with the utmost care and quality,” says Michael Hill, co-owner and creative director.

Aimé Leon Dore for Drake’s FW21

Drake’s complete wardrobe offering acts as a fine counterpart to the bespoke garments that Savile Row produces, but it’s the brand’s ongoing collaboration with Aimé Leon Dore, a New York-based sophisticated streetwear brand, that’s pushing The Row forward. Aimé Leon Dore has “its own identity and design sensibility that we feel complements our own here at Drake’s,” reflects Hill, and one of the reasons why it’s been such a hit is that both brands have very different customers, which has brought a new generation to The Row.

“I think that, for the Aime Leon Dore customer visiting us on Savile Row for the first time, Drake’s serves as a great and varied introduction into understanding more about the heritage of the area and the craft of Savile Row, and hopefully makes them want to return and explore more of the area and the tailors and brands that make it such a special part of London,” Hill adds.

The Deck founder Daisy Knatchbull

Having a younger generation of menswear enthusiasts is one thing, but the importance of The Deck’s arrival in October 2020 cannot be under emphasised. Since its inception, Savile Row has been predominantly for men which is an archaic way of thinking and The Deck, which was founded by Daisy Knatchbull as a tailoring house only for women, has made steps towards levelling the playing field.

“The beauty of what we do is we cater to every size, shape and age,” says Knatchbull. “Not only are our clients investing in beautiful, timeless pieces made from the best quality cloths and craftsmen out there, but they are investing in something for life.” The seismic revolution our wardrobes underwent during the pandemic necessitated the influx of loungewear and ‘WFH-attire’, but that was only a preface to a return to formality and garments that are designed for a lifetime of wear.

“Post lockdown consumer shopping habits have changed, and people are starting to be more considerate about what they are buying, and if that’s anything to go by, the suit will play a fundamental part in the modern women’s wardrobe going forward,” she adds.

That same month, The Service café opened on Savile Row and then could appeal to the olfactory and gustatory senses with The Fresh Coffee Company, pastries, sandwiches and more. It was a welcomed move, says co-founder James Sleater, who also co-owns the tailoring house Cad & The Dandy, which has just moved into an even larger premises down the road.

“We have really been taken quite by surprise at how popular it’s been and how much of a menswear hub it has become.” Naturally, you couldn’t have a café on Savile Row that didn’t champion its storied foundations, and The Service regularly hosts pop-ups and exhibitions, such as ‘Savile Row Bespoke: Tailored Casual’, which underlined the versatility of what bespoke tailoring houses can create.

‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up shop

Arguably The Service’s top customer is Simon Crompton of Permanent Style, who for the last decade has championed Savile Row and its bespoke houses more so than any other figure in the industry. For the last few years, he’s run ‘Permanent Style Presents’, a regular pop-up that brings brands and tailors you can’t get in London to The Row, which has been a tremendous success.

“We’re bringing in the best menswear from around the world and making them part of the Savile Row story,” he explains, and points towards Chicago based Optimo – “arguably the best hat maker in the world” – and Bryceland’s Co, a classic men’s haberdashery and custom tailoring house from Hong Kong, as examples. Simon plans on another two or three pop-ups this year, with the first due to take place at the end of February.

Edward Sexton, Savile Row

Perhaps the greatest bit of news that broke surrounding Savile Row during the pandemic was the return of Edward Sexton – the legendary bespoke tailoring house that gave The Row rock n roll credentials and a newfound sense of attitude, via its strong, sexy and masculine house style.

“We are respectful to our traditions and heritage while not being trapped by them, and we want to bring our own style,” says creative director Dominic Sebag- Montefiore. There will be little need for a bland and safe suit, he believes in the post-pandemic world, and so he will be focusing on separates that can be dressed-up or down, and showing customers how classic tailoring will remain relevant.

clothsurgeon founder Rav Matharu

The upcoming unveiling of clothsurgeon, a bespoke streetwear brand that faithfully upholds the traditions of Savile Row, will have a profound influence on its appeal from design perspectives. Founded by Rav Mathura, he’s collaborated with the likes of Coca-Cola and Harrods, and is lauded for reconstructing Nike sweatsuits into unique tailored clothing. He will also become Savile Row’s first South Asian designer to open on the street.

Italian Lambskin Bomber Jacket, £825

“The support was truly overwhelming and emotional,” he reflects. “The true meaning for me, though, is to lead by example and continue to push the boundaries and idea of new bespoke, and hopefully open doors and thinking for South Asian creatives.” In juxtaposition to The Row’s old-school houses, Rav’s store will be fittingly modern with bright, contemporary lighting with an inclusive feeling and will act as “a platform to highlight young up and coming artists, all aimed to bring a new energy to The Row.”

Through a typical stoic way that’s redolent of the British, Savile Row has pulled through. But, it’s by no means out of the woods. Earlier this month, it was announced that the owners of Gieves & Hawkes, occupants of the prestigious address 1 Savile Row, went into liquidation, which was a stark reminder of the situation. Nevertheless, “Savile Row continues to be the global centre for luxury bespoke tailoring, and as a more conscious consumer emerges from the pandemic the inherent sustainability of Savile Row is of great importance,”  Stocks says rightly. The Row just needs to continue to galvanise, welcome new ideas, genders and brands, while preserving the magic that it’s wielded for centuries.