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5 Iconic Watch Models Scaled Down for Small Wrists

Tudor Black Bay 54 37mm M79000N-0001

Size is one of the most important specifications for a wristwatch. It’s often the first barrier (along with price) that prevents people from buying watches even if they’re a fan of everything else. We’ve all heard people say, “I love this design but I won’t buy it because the size doesn’t suit me”. That’s been especially true in the last 20-odd years when watches have become really big. Well, that’s something watchmakers are becoming aware of and a lot of them are now releasing their iconic watches in small sizes, 37mm and less, while retaining a distinctly unisex appeal. Slim wristed people rise up! Let’s take a look at some of these miniaturised legends.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm 77450ST.OO.1361ST.02

When it comes to iconic models, the Royal Oak is about as legendary as it gets and within the sphere of ROs, perhaps the most widely popular is the Jumbo. However, we’re not looking at the Jumbo, we’re looking at the ref. 77450ST.OO.1361ST.02, a self-winding model at a 34mm diameter in stainless steel. All the signature design elements Royal Oak are present in full force, albeit at a smaller scale than the familiar 39mm and 41mm versions. It has the octagonal bezel, visible screws, integrated bracelet, Tapisserie dial, facetted hour markers and facetted hands.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm 77450ST.OO.1361ST.02

Beneath the surface is the Calibre 5800, which is a little more compact than some of their other movements. The main notable way that affects performance is that it has a 50-hour power reserve compared to the 70-hours found in some of its larger cousins. Beyond that, the 34mm edition really is just a smaller RO and to be honest a great way to pick up an AP for a good price. At £21,800 it’s a fair bit less expensive than the Jumbo, especially on the secondary market.

Price & Specs

  • Ref: 77450ST.OO.1361ST.02|
  • Case/dial: 34mm diameter x 8.8mm thickness, stainless steel case, silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern|
  • Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)|
  • Movement: AP calibre 5800, automatic, 28 jewels, 186 parts|
  • Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
  • Power reserve: 50h|
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date|
  • Strap: Stainless steel bracelet|
  • Price/availability: £21,800, more details at Audemars Piguet.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34mm

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34mm

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is an intriguing beast because perhaps more than any other watch here, it has always embraced smaller sizes. As is, the model is currently available in 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm and 41mm options. 34mm feels like the best balance of modern and vintage tastes if you’re looking for a smaller, unisex version. Although, if you want to look back all the way to the 40s, then 28 and 31mm watches for men were not uncommon either, just look at the vintage Hamiltons we recently covered from that period, the majority of which are sub 30mm.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34mm M124200-0003

It makes sense for the OP to be a versatile watch because in many regards it is the common ancestor of the majority of Rolex watches. The Submariner and the presidential Day-Date are vastly different watches but they share the DNA of the Oyster Perpetual. Today the OP fulfils that missing link role by being a kind of hybrid between sports and dress watch design. It’s durable in steel but refined with a sunray brushed dial and multiple bright colourways. Similarly, the smaller size makes it easy to slip under a cuff and easy to wear while being active.

Price & Specs

  • Ref: M124200-0003|
  • Case/dial: 34mm diameter ‘Oystersteel’ stainless steel case, bright blue dial|
  • Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)|
  • Movement: Rolex calibre 2233, automatic, 31 jewels|
  • Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
  • Power reserve: 68h|
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds|
  • Strap: ‘Oystersteel’ stainless steel bracelet|
  • Price/availability: £4,850, more details at Rolex.

Tudor Black Bay 54 37mm

Tudor Black Bay 54

One of the larger watches featured here is the Tudor Black Bay 54, which sits at a 37mm diameter. However, what makes it a relevant inclusion is that it’s a dive watch and the dive watch category has always been on the larger side of things for practical reasons. In the dark underwater, legibility is king and the easiest way to make a watch display more visible is to make it bigger. At the same time, a larger case can have a stronger construction making it more pressure resistant. As such, a 37mm dive watch is comparable to a 34mm sports watch in terms of its size in relation to the modern norm.

Tudor Black Bay 54

Style-wise, the Black Bay 54 draws its inspiration from the earliest Tudor divers like the 7922 and 7923 Oyster Prince. A sleek case, broad diving bezel and retro dive watch display featuring oversize hour markers and signature Tudor snowflake hands. It’s understated and incredibly classy, just like it’s equally retro stablemate the Black Bay 58. Inside is the Calibre MT5400 with 70-hour power reserve.

Price & Specs

  • Ref: M79000N-0001|
  • Case/dial: 37mm diameter, stainless steel case, black dial|
  • Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)|
  • Movement: Tudor calibre MT5400, automatic, 27 jewels|
  • Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
  • Power reserve: 70h|
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds|
  • Strap: Stainless steel bracelet|
  • Price/availability: £3,200, more details at Tudor.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Shades 34mm

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 34mm

Over the 75 years that it’s been around, the Omega Seamaster has become one of the most versatile ranges of dive watches on the market – ranging from the 150m Aqua Terra to the 6,000m Ultra-Deep. We’re focussing on the Aqua Terra here, which is available in a 34mm version launched as part of the colour focussed releases from 2022. There’s sea blue, lagoon green, sandstone, shell pink and lavender.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Shades 34mm 220.10.34.20.03.002

While it might be a Seamaster, the Aqua Terra is generally more at home out of the water rather than in it, which is why it has the word “land” in its name, functioning more as a sleek dress watch than a purebred diver. Something that’s supported by the sunray brushed finishing and oval hour markers. All of which is a rather longwinded way of saying that the smaller diameter of the 34mm suit it perfectly.

Price & Specs

  • Ref: 220.10.34.20.03.002|
  • Case/dial: 34mm diameter x 11.9mm thickness, stainless steel case, sea blue dial|
  • Water resistance: 150m (15 bar)|
  • Movement: Omega calibre 8800, automatic, 35 jewels|
  • Frequency: 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz)|
  • Power reserve: 55h|
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date|
  • Strap: Stainless steel bracelet|
  • Price/availability: £6,100, more details at Omega.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 35mm

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 35mm Blue T137.207.11.041.00

Last up is the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 which was recently launched in a 35mm automatic model in white, green, blue and black. The PRX might not have the instant name recognition as some of the other watches here by it’s just as venerable and iconic in its own right, just at a completely different level of accessibility. The design dates back to 1978 with a flat barrel case and integrated bracelet, following the aesthetic sensibilities of Genta-style design. It’s a popular design and being 35mm doesn’t change that.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 35mm T137.207.11.051.00

As expected of a Powermatic 80 model, it houses the Powermatic 80 automatic movement which offers pretty incredible value for money. It has an 80-hour power reserve while the watch itself is just £610 (£650 for the white version). In all aspects of size, value, style and prestige, the PRX 35mm is a watch that punches dramatically above its weight.

Price & Specs

  • Ref: T137.207.11.051.00|
  • Case/dial: 35mm diameter x 10.9mm thickness, stainless steel case, black dial|
  • Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)|
  • Movement: Tissot powermatic 80.111, automatic|
  • Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)|
  • Power reserve: 80h|
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date|
  • Strap: Stainless steel bracelet|
  • Price/availability: £610, more details at Tissot.

1 Comment

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  • Not for small wrists but for the clue-ed up ….The big watch craze 2002-21 is over, and watch fashion size plummeting for the watch fashionista and style tifosi.

    Think 1978 for lapels, flares and tie widths – the uninitiated were still wearing big but the cognoscenti were going all slim lapel, drainpipe and pencil ties, Flares and kippers dead by 79/80…..huge watches are pretty much there now.

    Self regarding peacocks in their 45….50 millimetre AP, Panerai, Hublot, Franck Muellers and even Rolex YM2s will be laughed at in the years to come (or until big watches come back into vogue in 25-30 years).

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.