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The Beginner’s Guide to Every Tudor Model

Tudor guide

While on paper Tudor seems like a Rolex diffusion brand, that sentiment couldn’t be further from the actual truth, as shown by the brand’s slew of collector-centric new models and reputation for affordable excellence. Collections like the Black Bay have become desirable in their own right, bringing Tudor out from Rolex’s shadow.

Like any serious brand though, they have a fair number of models and if you’re new to the watch world you could use a primer to the full Tudor collection – a primer we’re more than happy to provide. Here then is the Oracle Time guide to every model of the modern Tudor era.

Black Bay Models

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

The Black Bay collection of diving and tool watches has become Tudor’s signature range, distilling over 60 years of knowledge and experience into a single timepiece. It’s a legacy that began with Tudor’s first diver in 1954, the reference 7922, which helped establish Tudor’s dive watch principles of legibility and ruggedness – features that can be seen in the Black Bay today.

However, the Black Bay name doesn’t just refer to a single watch, but several different collections. While each of them are distinct, there are some crucial similarities the make them a uniform collection – you’ll hear ‘snowflake’ hands mentioned more than once.

Tudor Black Bay 41mm

Tudor Black Bay 41mm

The base model Black Bay diver’s watch is available in several versions including with date and GMT functions. You can see all the elements that typify the broader range: the ‘snowflake’ hands that are inspired by Tudor’s past collaborations with the French Navy, the domed dial and crystal and the big crown. Tudor loves a bit of heritage inspiration, which is evident on the Black Bay’s distinctly vintage dial the combines a black base with brown inscriptions, a brown minute track and white or cream lume.

The stainless steel case is complimented by a unidirectional rotating bezel with dive timers in a range of colours, like red and blue, that are split into day and night on the GMT models. The splash of colour is a nice addition to an otherwise sombre and serious looking watch.

Ref: M79230N-0009
Case/Dial: Steel case, black dial, with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house Manufacture Calibre MT5602, automatic, Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £2,840

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Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 39mm

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 39mm

Taking the Black Bay collection back to its origins, the Fifty-Eight is named after a famous Tudor timepiece from, you guessed it, 1958. It captures that retro essence in its slimmer case size of 39mm – compared to the regular 41mm. It’s a more elegant take on the Black Bay and explores colour further, with multiple dials on offer with matching tone bezels.

Two new watches were added to the Fifty-Eight line up earlier this year, bringing precious metals to the table: the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 and 18k. The 925 has a silver case and a taupe dial while the 18k is made from yellow gold and has a green dial. There’s no contest between them though; it’s all about that silver.

Ref: M79010SG-0001
Case/Dial:
925 silver case, taupe dial, with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5400, automatic, Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Brown leather strap
Price: £3,230

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Tudor Black Bay Chrono 41mm

Tudor Black Bay Chrono 41mm

The halfway house between a classic racing chronograph and the underwater sensibilities of the Black Bay case, the Chrono offers Panda and reverse panda (black counters on white or vice versa) dials that would look at home on vintage trackside timers. If you prefer something a little more luxurious, there’s also the S&G bi-colour version, with or without a bund strap. We prefer without.

Sure, there’s some debate as to whether a chronograph belongs on a diving watch – it can have an impact on depth resistance and readability – but the Black Bay Chrono is an undeniably cool collection.

Ref: M79360N-0001
Case/Dial: Steel case, black with dial silver counters, with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5813, automatic, Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £3,900

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Tudor Black Bay Ceramic 41mm

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic 41mm

The newest addition to the Black Bay line-up appeared out of nowhere in May 2021 – the new Black Bay Ceramic, a blacked-out version following in the footsteps of the old Black Bay Dark. It brings a new material to the collection for the first time in the form of ultra-hard and corrosion resistant ceramic, a high-tech material perfectly at home on diving watches.

The exterior isn’t the only haute horology touch though. The watch is equipped with the new in-house MT5602-1U, Tudor’s first ever manufacture calibre to achieve master chronometer status – which means it has achieved an accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day, 15,000 gauss resistance and a 70-hour power reserve. Did we mention the movement is also stealth black? If you find a better watch for £3,550… buy it

Ref: M79210CNU-0001
Case/Dial:
Matt black ceramic case, black dial with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U, automatic, Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Hybrid leather and rubber strap
Price: £3,550

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Tudor Black Bay Bronze 43mm

Tudor Black Bay Bronze 43mm

The name says it all: a bronze-cased version of the standard Black Bay. Bronze is a material that has a longstanding history with nautical affairs, being a vital part of early ship construction and later in the development of diving technology.

However, there’s more to the use of bronze in watchmaking than simply the history behind it. As the metal gets worn, it will develop a unique patina over time. This feature makes bronze watches popular with collectors who want an extra level of personalisation. Not to mention that the Black Bay Bronze also has all the features (‘snowflake’ hands) that make the Black Bay popular to begin with.

Ref: M79250BA-0002
Case/Dial: Bronze case, slate grey dial, with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5601, automatic, Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Slate grey fabric strap
Price: £3,110

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Tudor Black Bay 32mm

Tudor Black Bay 32/36/41

If you’re looking for a slightly more refined take on the Black Bay, there’s the 32/36/41 collection that eschew the bulky diving bezel for a plain metal version. They’re also available in sizes of 32mm,

36mm and 41mm making them versatile for wrists of any size. Another aspect that makes them stand out is the graphic style of the dials, especially the silver coloured ones that have white indices with bold black outlines, very modern.

Inside is the T600 automatic movement, a Tudor take on the Sellita SW200. It’s a slight shame that they don’t use the in-house Calibre MT5601, which can be found in most Black Bays and has an outstanding 70-hour power reserve, but this is the kiddy end of the Tudor pool.

Ref: M79580-0007
Case/Dial:
Steel case, silver dial with 150m (15 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre T600, automatic, 38h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet 
Price: £2,130

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Tudor Black Bay P01 42mm

Tudor Black Bay P01 42mm

The Black Bay P01 technically took 50 years to develop, although for most of that time the plans sat unused in Tudor’s files waiting to be transformed into an actual timepiece. P01 stands for prototype 1, a reference to a series of experimental watches produced by Tudor for the US military in the late 1950s. None of the experiments came to fruition but Tudor kept the blueprints and eventually turned them into the Black Bay P01.

Considering its military starting point, this is the watch that has the least obvious Black Bay heritage, with only the ‘snowflake’ hands as the major indicator of its status. The case shape, with its crown at 4-5 o’clock, is the most unique out of any Black Bay and has a militaristic, utilitarian style without any notable embellishments.

Ref: M70150-0001
Case/Dial:
Steel case, black dial with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5612, automatic, Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Brown leather strap
Price: £2,990

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Non-Black Bay Models

Tudor Royal 41mm

Surprising as it might seem given the all-pervasive popularity of the Black Bay, that’s not all Tudor has to offer, even in the realm of sports timepieces. From heritage pieces to the chunky beast that is the Pelagos, there’s plenty to love outside of Tudor’s flagship blueprint. Case in point…

Tudor Royal 41mm

Tudor Royal 41mm

The Tudor Royal is somewhere on the sports-luxe scale. The 41mm sized versions are big and rugged, suitable for powerful wrists, but the collection also dips down to an absolutely tiny 28mm, which is small for even the daintiest. The contrast between refinement and sportiness is further displayed by the integrated bracelet which is a sporting staple and diamond indices on a dial surrounded by a notched bezel with alternating finishes.

Considering the drastic size differences on display, there are also a variety of calibres that are used inside. The larger pieces use the T601 while the small ones utilise the T201 – supplied variously by Sellita and ETA.

Ref: M28600-0005
Case/Dial:
Steel case, blue dial, with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre T603, automatic, 38h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £1,730

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Tudor Pelagos 42mm

Tudor Pelagos 42mm

A basic Black Bay diver is water resistant to around 200m, leaving plenty of room for a dedicated deep sea model. Step forward the Pelagos with its 500m water resistance rating. Stylistically it owes a lot to its Black Bay brethren, featuring the same ‘snowflake’ hand design, although it changes things up with square hour markers.

The materials used also make it stand out from Tudor’s other divers, opting for a 41mm titanium and steel case with a ceramic insert bezel. The crown also has protective shoulders to help prevent accidental adjustment – interestingly there is also a left-handed edition that flips the crown to the 9 o’clock position, called the Pelagos LHD.

Ref: M25600TN-0001
Case/Dial:
Titanium and steel case, black dial, with 500m (50 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5612, automatic, Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Price: £3,440

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Tudor Heritage Chrono 42mm

Tudor Heritage Chrono 42mm

Tudor’s traditional chronograph takes inspiration from a heritage design from the 1970s, though they haven’t shied away from making alterations to the vintage piece. The outcome of their modern reinterpretation is the Heritage Chrono, a sporty timepiece with a small seconds subdial at 3 o’clock and a 45-minute counter at 9 o’clock.

Stylistically, there are three versions on offer, two greyscale variants and a more colourful blue one called, fittingly, the Heritage Chrono Blue. The combination of a rich blue with the white dial and orange accents makes for an energetic appearance with a busier, more eye-catching look than Tudor’s usual utilitarian vibes.

Ref: M70330B-0004
Case/Dial: Steel case, opaline blue dial, with 150m (15 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre T401 with chronograph function, automatic, 42h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £3,390

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Heritage Advisor 42mm

Tudor Heritage Advisor 42mm

The Heritage Advisor, similar to the Tudor Royal, is a sports watch in name only. Its 42mm case and titanium and steel construction are a great base for a sporty timepiece, but all that goes out the window when you look at the alligator leather or silk strap options that the Advisor comes on.

For a modern customer, this is a novelty watch that you’d buy because you like the idea of having a mechanical alarm clock integrated with your wristwatch – which is precisely what the Advisor is. Its alarm module is created by Tudor for the T401 calibre movement and includes an on/off indicator and a power reserve indicator at 9 and 3 on the dial. It also has a calendar subdial at 6 o’clock.

Ref: M79620TC-0006
Case/Dial:
Titanium and steel case, cognac dial with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre T401, automatic, with additional alarm function mechanism developed exclusively by Tudor, 42h power reserve
Strap: Cognac alligator leather strap
Price: £4,490

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Classic Models

Tudor Glamour

As Rolex’s sister company, Tudor are also masters of classic dress watches in the vein of models like the Datejust. The highlight being of course the fact that all these Rolex quality timepieces are just a fraction of the price. So, whether you look to the 1926, the Style, the Glamour or the slightly more unique Clair de Rose, Tudor have got all your essential luxury timepiece needs covered.

Tudor 1926 28mm

Tudor 1926 28mm

1926 was the year that Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf first created Tudor as an accessible alternative to the luxury giant. The watch has a correspondingly vintage aesthetic, with a domed dial and subtle minute scale.

The collection was expanded recently to vastly increase the number of size, dial, colour and material options available. Meaning you can opt for a classic steel and white dial version or a more luxurious rose gold finishing. As with the Tudor Royal, the sizes range between 41mm and 28mm.

Ref: M91351-0002
Case/Dial:
Steel case, silver embossed decorated dial with 6 diamonds, with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre T201, automatic, 38h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £2,520

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Tudor Style 28mm

Tudor Style 28mm

If you want to trick your friends into thinking you have an actual Rolex, the Style collection is the way to go – so long as you don’t let them see the logo on the dial. The 28mm versions with fluted bezels are pure Datejust and even have a date window in the same location. You’re just missing the cyclops lens.

Completing the classic dress watch look are the dauphine style hands and lacquered dials, available in glossy black, sunray brushed champagne and sunray silver. It’s as elegant and refined as you’d expect, endlessly versatile and suitable for everyone.

Ref: M12110-0001
Case/Dial:
Steel case, silver dial with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre T201, automatic, 38h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £1,730

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Tudor Glamour 42mm

Tudor Glamour 42mm

The Glamour collection consists of several sub-collections featuring different complications. There’s the Glamour Double Date, Glamour Date + Day and Glamour Date, each doing more or less what you’d expect.

Out of the lot, the Double Date is the standout with its separate tens and units for the date function at 12 and a small seconds subdial at 6. It has an elegant double bezel which looks great in bi-colour on the 42mm case. As with the other dress watches from Tudor, there are lots of choices to be made including whether you want diamond or regular indices.

Ref: M57103-0005
Case/Dial:
Steel case, silver dial with 11 diamonds, with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5641, automatic, Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Steel and yellow gold bracelet
Price: £3,940

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Tudor Clair de Rose 30mm

Tudor Clair de Rose 30mm

2017’s Clair de Rose collection is a refined collection of steel, automatic timepieces aimed squarely at feminine charm. They are an amalgamation of several historic Tudors including the Tudor Royal, Glamour, Princess and Miss Tudor, the most obvious element being the cabochon crown that was almost entirely lifted from the Miss Tudor, at least stylistically.

The opaline dial can be fitted with diamond indices or blue Roman numeral, surrounding the fluted guilloché wheel in the centre. The Clair de Rose is available in three sizes, 26mm, 30mm and 34mm – definitely on the dainty side of things.

Ref: M35500-0001
Case/Dial:
Steel case, opaline dial with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre T201, automatic, 38h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £1,740

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Discontinued Models

Tudor Submariner

In our beginner guides, we aim to give you an overview of the brand as you’ll find it today, the watches in their current collections are eminently more accessible than vintage pieces that are only available on the second-hand market. However, there are a couple that pop up often enough that they’re still worth covering.

Tudor North Flag 40mm

Tudor North Flag

The North Flag was discontinued last year, but it was so cool that it’s still worth a mention and there are still plenty around. After Tudor’s resurgence they finally made the leap to invest in in-house calibres and the North Flag was the first recipient – a sort of test run before the calibre transferred across to more prominent collections.

With a minimal design and an integrated bracelet, the aesthetics are pure adventurous tool watch and the North Flag has a performance to match, thanks to that in-house MT5621 calibre with a 70-our power reserve.

Tudor Submariner

Tudor Submariner

The Submariner name is synonymous with Rolex and the Tudor version of the watch harks back to the days when the brand was simply Rolex’s more accessible shadow. In fact, the earliest Tudor Submariners were created by the same processes as Rolex, meaning you could find Rolex branding on the cases, bracelets and crown.

However, the Submariner eventually developed its own Tudor flavour, adopting ‘snowflake’ hands, and square hour markers. It was also the first timepiece to bear their new logo of a shield, a logo they carry to this day.

About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Junior Content Producer for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. While a relative newcomer to the magazine, he's nonetheless a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better.

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