Oracle Recommends: Watches for May 2023

Sphaera Desk Diver, €850 (approx. £750)

Sphaera Desk Diver

Sphaera are a young Austrian microbrand which have launched their debut wristwatch, the Desk Diver, on Kickstarter. As the watch’s name implies, the Desk Diver takes visual inspiration from technical tool watches, while also being an instrument designed specifically for day-to-day life in the office. It features a 40.5mm diameter case with screw-in bezel and a sandwich dial with SuperLuminova. The latter enhances the dive watch aesthetic in the vein of iconic models like the Panerai Radiomir. The Desk Diver is powered by the Landeron 24 W automatic calibre.

Available at Kickstarter, more details at Sphaera.

BWG Bavarian Watch Isaria, €555 (approx. £485)

BWG Bavarian Watch Isaria

Bavarian Watches are a German watchmaking brand which create watches inspired by the dual personality of Baveria. On the one hand you have grand, soaring castles with Romantic designs and on the other, you have the bustling, modern city of Munich. As such, BWG watches tread a line between luxurious design and practical utility, both of which are exemplified in the new Isaria model with its 42.2mm case with 200m water resistance and bold facetted design. The name and colourway options are inspired by the river Isar, which flows through Munich.

€555 for first 50 buyers or €1,555 standard price (approx. £490/£1,375)

Available at BWG.

Lilienthal Chronograph Limited Edition Meteorite III, £346.50

Lilienthal Chronograph Limited Edition Meteorite III

Meteorite is a very evocative material that is seeing increasing use in watchmaking. Literally originating in space, meteorite has hurtled through the atmosphere of Earth undergoing enormous strains and pressures that create its signature Widmannstätten pattern of striations and criss-crossing lines. Lilienthal have integrated a thin disk of meteorite into the dial of the Chronograph Limited Edition Meteorite III with the space rock functioning as the small seconds subdial.

Available at Lilienthal.

Kienzle Pilot Timer – KM 417, €1,280 (approx. £1,125)

Kienzle Pilot Timer KM 417

The Pilot Timer – KM 417 is Kienzle’s flagship pilot’s chronograph, featuring a 44mm stainless steel case with fluted bezel. The dial is clearly inspired by the instruments found in cockpits, with the black, red and white colourway creating a high contrast display that’s easy to read. It houses the NE86 automatic chronograph movement from Seiko, which features hours, minutes, central chronograph seconds, a 30-minute timer and a small seconds indicator. There’s also a tachymeter presented on the flange.

Available at Kienzle.

Gravithin ArgoMatic, €399 (approx. £350)

Gravithin ArgoMatic

The Gravithin ArgoMatic is inspired by the Argo constellation, a grouping of stars in the southern hemisphere that has since been re-classified as three separate constellations. The dot pattern across the rings of the dial are evocative of stars in the night sky while the red seconds hand represents the lens of a sextant, a traditional form of navigation. The watch itself has a 42mm steel case and houses the Miyota 9015 automatic with 42-hour power reserve.

Available at Gravithin.

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