Back in the spring of 2026 Favre Leuba reintroduced a model from their heritage catalogue in the form of the new Harpoon Revival. A polished steel dress watch inspired by the 1966 original which is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year. The model proved so popular that Favre Leuba are now expanding the collection with two new colourways. To coincide with the launch of the new colours, we’ve been hands-on with the initial grey edition released earlier this year to get to grips with the new collection.
Out of the box, the Harpoon Revival is an extremely charming watch. Measuring 36.8mm x 10mm it falls on the smaller end of the size spectrum by modern standards, but fits in perfectly with the trend over the past 48 months that has seen small watches surge in popularity due to increased interest in retro, vintage proportions. Additionally, it doesn’t feel especially small when worn thanks to a lug-to-lug length of 43.5mm keeping the strap naturally curving around the wrist.
Further to that, the case is made from steel giving it a reassuring heft. Though it remains distinctly dressy thanks to a high sheen polished finish and a water resistance rating of 50m. While it bears the name Harpoon, this is not a watch to be worn by storm-wracked fishermen (at least not while they’re working).
The refinement of the collection continues on the dial, which is sunray brushed so that the light plays across it in a satisfying manner. It looks great in the grey of the original colourway but now it’s also available in black or blue. I particularly like the blue because it’s the first coloured variant, leaving behind the greyscale roots and opening the door to all manner of possible dials in the future. I can already picture a salmon or pistachio variant. The black is also nice, doubling down on the vibe of being a a serious watch for formal occasions.
Beneath the new dials is the calibre FLD04, which Favre Leuba version of the La Joux-Perret G100 automatic with a 68-hour power reserve. It can be wound or time set via the crown at 3 o’clock, which gives nice and responsive feedback when you’re using it. It’s protected by a solid caseback with the Favre Leuba logo – it is worth noting that the version I’m hands-on with is a much used and abused press sample that has been through the ringer of all manner of photoshoots already so it’s a little worse for wear but that’s no indictment on the watch itself.
For pricing, the Favre Leuba Harpoon Revival is £1,800 for every colour. If you’re looking for a smart dress watch with a top LJP movement for under £2,000, there isn’t much out there that can compete with this. The balance of style, specs and price makes this watch solid value. I hope to see it continue to expand in future.
Price and Specs:
More details at Favre Leuba.
