There’s a lot to catch the eye at Baselworld. God knows there are enough new releases from the old guard of big brands, the likes of Rolex, Patek and the entirety of Swatch Group. But that’s not all. The world’s biggest watch fair is also a rare chance for new brands to shine.
As the eagle-eyed trendsetters we are, we’ve taken notice of a handful of the most intriguing, interesting and downright best watchmakers to emerge at Baselworld 2018.
Their catchphrase of ‘dare to make differently’ might not roll off the tongue in the same way as Roger Dubuis’ equivalent but it manages to sum up the Audaceone ethos quite nicely. Their debut timepiece, the Square is somewhere between a Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and a TAG Heuer Monaco.
Slim at 9mm but with the kind of titanium machining you’d see in a much bigger, sportier watch it’s certainly an odd duck. The Vaucher movement promises to be pretty decent – if you can get hold of one of the sixty launch pieces. Time well tell how they go but it’s not a bad start; audaceone.com
Where to start with these guys? Other than Baselworld 2018, obviously. Essentially, they’re what happens when a car designer sees the likes of Urwerk and MB&F and says ‘yeah, why not.’ Rather than a single collection, Soon is more like a roster of concepts, with all the borderline insane horology and unique designs that entails. They describe their watches as ‘phenomena’ and we’re inclined to agree.
Granted so far we’ve only seen renders of watches like the sleek, spaceage Copper Head and ruby-hued Amiral Helliott, but if Soon delivers just a fraction of their promise, they may be one of the most exciting – if divisive – new brands in the watch world; www.soon-timepiece-phenomena.com
The flying tourbillon Trilevis 6118 looks like a collection worthy of a real competitor in the realms of haute horology – and indeed it is. It’s just that Giberg has only just relaunched after being consigned to the ether. There must be something in the Swiss water supply too because like the other two on this list, there’s nothing traditional about the distinctly Avant Garde watchmaker.
If we had to say they were reminiscent of anything it would probably be Arnold & Son, but that’s perhaps only in the construction of their open in-house movements. Other than that, we’ve not seen anything quite like them. We’re very much looking forward to seeing them in the flesh and, more importantly, on the wrist; www.giberg.com