Hands On Horology 2025 - Early Bird Tickets Live

Watches

Breitling Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk Collection

Breitling Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk Collection

This side of the pond we’re all a bit obsessed by the Spitfire. There’s good reason I’ll grant you, but look across the pond and you’ll find an equally iconic – and some might say superior – aircraft in the P-40 Warhawk, the inspiration behind Breitling’s latest trio of pieces dubbed the Breitling Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk.

After their previous trio dedicated to old airlines, it’s good to see Breitling back in the military, and they wear that design inspiration like a badge of honour. The Warhawk was produced at the same time Breitling themselves were building timepieces for the military, so you’d expect them to know how to build a fitting watch. From the way these came out, they’ve easily met those expectations.

Curtiss P-40 Warhawk

Curtiss P-40 Warhawk

The fatigue green of the dial doesn’t just match the feel perfectly, it’s a pretty cool colour besides and suits the serious, professional feel of flight instruments. That said, the Aviator 8s have more than just nice colour and a slight vintage feel about them.

The watches don’t bear the name ‘Aviator’ lightly, with bezels that have been notched so they can be used easily with flight gloves on. The same goes for the slightly oversized crowns and mushroom pushers, all made to be as user-friendly as possible.

Breitling Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk

Breitling Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk

The first of the three watches is the Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43, whose name is pretty self-explanatory. It’s the version with Breitling’s in-house chronograph movement and has a 43mm case. Nice and simply. The movement’s worth crowing about too, boasting a 70-hour power reserve. The bright white subdials are a striking contrast too, making it the brightest watch of the three.

Breitling Aviator 8 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk

Breitling Aviator 8 Chronograph 43 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk

The second piece is the Aviator 8 43 Curtiss Warhawk. Again, you have a 43mm stainless steel case and again a chronograph, but a slightly different one. Here the subdials are arranged at 12, 9 and 6. The counters also use the same colour as the main dial for a little less contrast; it does however come on a militaristic canvas strap which I personally prefer to the steel bracelet.

Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic 41 Curtiss Warhawk

Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic 41 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk

The final piece to finish the triptych is at once the simplest and, in our opinion, the best of the three: the Aviator 8 Automatic 41 Curtiss Warhawk. It’s smaller than the others and leans into the tool watch feel. There’s nothing superfluous other than perhaps the date and it’s been given a DLC overhaul for both practical purposes and to look that little bit more like a modern military piece. It’s also a little smaller at 41mm than the other two.

It’s about time Breitling started going a bit more military; watches like the commercial pilots’ Navitimers and the Premier are all well and good, but there’s nothing quite like the history of military aviation, especially when it comes to the famous Warhawk P-40.

Price & Specs:

      • Model Name: Breitling Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk
      • Dial/Case: 43mm stainless-steel case, military green dial with a matte finish, contrasting silver subdials – 12-hour and 30-minute chronograph counters and a small second subdial, bidirectional rotating bezel featuring Arabic numerals and indexes as well as a practical red pointer, transparent sapphire crystal caseback printed with a Curtiss inscription and an image of an airborne P-40 Warhawk
      • Movement: Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 (COSC-certified), in-house, mechanical 
        Water Resistance: 
        10 bar (100 meters/330 feet)
      • Power Reserve: 70h
      • Price: £6,230
      • Model Name: Breitling Aviator 8 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk
      • Dial/Case: 43mm stainless-steel case, military green dial with a matte finish, black nickel-plated hour and minute hands and tone-on-tone subdials – 12-hour and 30-minute chronograph counters and a small second subdial, caseback engraved with a Curtiss inscription and an image of a P-40 Warhawk
      • Movement: Breitling Caliber 13 (COSC-certified), mechanical, self-winding
        Water Resistance: 
        10 bar (100 meters/330 feet)
      • Power Reserve: 42h
      • Price: £6,270
      • Model Name: Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic 41 Curtiss Warhawk
      • Dial/Case: 41mm DLC-coated stainless steel case, military green dial with a matte finish and is presented on a green military strap, bidirectional rotating bezel with a red pointer and a central seconds hand with a red tip
      • Movement: Breitling Caliber 17 (COSC-certified)
        Water Resistance: 
        10 bar (100 meters/330 feet)
      • Power Reserve: 40h
      • Price: £3,260

For more information visit Breitling’s website.

Leave a Comment

*

*

About the author

Sam Kessler

Legend has it that Sam’s first word was ‘escapement’ and, while he might have started that legend himself, he’s been in the watch world long enough that it makes little difference. As the editor of Oracle Time, he’s our leading man for all things horological – even if he does love yellow dials to a worrying degree. Owns a Pogue; doesn’t own an Oyster Perpetual. Yet.