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In Focus: Seiko

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Time & Date Ref. SRPC03

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Time & Date Ref. SRPC03 in white (€420)

Founded way back in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori, Seiko has been the avatar of Japanese watchmaking – and, ever since they began, their movements have been some of the best in the world. They were the pioneer of quartz – an achievement of slightly dubious honour given what happened in the years after – and the only real watchmaking proponent of kinetic movements.

In fact, between both of their so-called Spring Drive and phenomenal Hi-Beat movements, they’re a regular winner at the GPHG, the Oscars of watchmaking. That’s not bad going for one of the only watchmakers to be found outside of Europe.

Seiko Prospex "The Black Series" Limited Edition

Seiko Prospex “The Black Series” Diver Automatic Turtle SRPC49K1 (€490)

A good part of their identity is how they handle their various sub-brands. Seiko is an amalgamation, covering the knockabout watches of Prospex, the bread-and-butter Seikos, the high-end Grand Seiko and the absurdly mountain high-end of Credor. Each is played to its strengths so that what you get is genuinely the best in each range.

Seiko Prospex Special Edition PADI SPB071J1 (€910)

Seiko Prospex Special Edition PADI SPB071J1 (€910)

Simply put, Seiko is the kind of brand you’ll never hear a word against. There are just no grounds. From elegance without pretence to hardcore diving equipment, when Seiko set out to make a watch they very rarely miss the mark. Take their latest lunar-inspired limited edition, the Presage Blue Enamel, as an example. Embodying Japan’s fascination with the moon, the crescent balancing the second hand is finished with a gold powder to give it the textured look of craters and celestial rock.

Seiko Presage Blue Enamel Limited Edition

Seiko Presage Blue Enamel Limited Edition (€1,150)

Even the remarkably deep, midnight-coloured enamel it circles above is more than it appears. The work of renowned enamel craftsman Mitsuru Yokozawa, its greater viscosity makes it harder to work with – but the result is immaculate. Whatever Seiko do, they commit to.

The price attached to a classically-rendered enamel limited edition like this? A penny under £1,000. If that doesn’t convince you of what Seiko can do, nothing will. More at: seiko.co.uk

About the author

Sam Kessler

Legend has it that Sam’s first word was ‘escapement’ and, while he might have started that legend himself, he’s been in the watch world long enough that it makes little difference. As the editor of Oracle Time, he’s our leading man for all things horological – even if he does love yellow dials to a worrying degree. Owns a Pogue; doesn’t own an Oyster Perpetual. Yet.