Moriarty dials are different. The process is largely the same – they’re built up in layers, sanded between each and fired at 800 degrees in a process taking 40-odd hours – but the composition of the actual enamel is different. Firstly, that’s because the enamel is opaque; second, it has iridescent particles suspended in the mix.
This is a technique we saw in the Hibernia, as well as Moriarty’s colourful piece for British Watchmakers’ Day, but it’s more obvious here than ever before. The Laguna’s pale, tropical blue is faintly glittery, more like a fine vein of crystalline rock than a classic enamel dial. The fineness of the effect means it won’t be mistaken for an actual stone dial and it’s perfectly flat without looking polished.
To add some real flair to the dial, the Laguna’s been given hot pink indexes with droplet shapes at the cardinal points and slim lines elsewhere. Finished with the brand logo – again in hot pink – it lands somewhere between candy-coloured and Miami Vice; with sharp, skeletonised lance hands, it’s more the latter. It’s a shame we’re entering autumn because this is a perfect summer combination.
If the dial colours weren’t Miami enough, the Laguna’s purple python strap finished the job. It’s more than a pop of colour; this is a statement watch, one that you’d likely want to get a spare strap for. Funky as it is, pink, blue and purple isn’t exactly a go-anywhere, do-anything colour combination, and dark blue calfskin would look great while toning it all down a few steps.
The thing is, this is supposed to be a statement watch, largely because it’s a one-off showpiece. Laguna isn’t a collection; it’s not even a limited edition. It’s a unique piece built simply to show off what Moriarty can do. You can order the same colours, but if you want the same effect in a cooler or warmer palette, perhaps something you can wear a bit more formally, that’s all part of the process. The Laguna is just to get potential buyers thinking of what they’d like to see.
The Laguna is the first in Moriarty’s new Iridescence series which will all of course have those iridescent particles in the enamel, but they’ll also share a new case design. It’s a very classical case, with a slim bezel, curving lugs and a very British heritage fluted crown, available in 37mm or the 40mm we have here, both of which are a relatively slim 11.25mm. It’s a nice size split and one that’s not as easy to decide upon as it should be. 37mm is generally a better size for a time-only watch in this style, but the wider the watch the more room that enamel has to breathe. For my 17cm wrists I’d opt for the smaller size, but if you’re pining for a 42mm version, rest assured that the 40mm has enough wrist presence that it won’t be needed.
Inside, protected by 30m water resistance, is the Sellita SW300-1B, one of the best-finished of Sellita’s third-party movements with the usual Swiss-coded Cotes de Genève and Perlage and a rose gold rotor. More importantly, it has a welcome, weekend-proof 56-hour power reserve. It’s nothing compared to the dial, but it’s reliable, it looks great and it’s straightforward to get serviced and repaired.
Despite the customisation options, the Iridescence series – including the Laguna – is priced at a standard €4,250, approximately £3,650. That’s actually comparable to anOrdain, at least at the Scottish brand’s upper end with the large-sized, automatic Model 1 Fumé. Yes, they have very different enamel effects and slightly different movements, but it’s not far off. More importantly, in Moriarty’s case, you’re getting a completely custom (rather than made-to-order) dial that will be with you in six months, rather than a pre-designed piece that, after a quick look at anOrdain’s website, will arrive sometime in 2030.
Obviously, if Moriarty get a flurry of orders their own wait list could grow exponentially, but for now at least, if you like a unique enamel dial, they’re a name worth remembering. And the Laguna’s a watch we won’t be forgetting any time soon.
Price and Specs:
More details at Moriarty Watches.
