If you look at Universal Genève’s historical icons – the Polerouter, Compax, and Tri-Compax – they have one thing in common: they are all tool watches. They’re watches built as professional timekeepers in demanding situations. They are not ‘couture’. So, when the brand was revived earlier this year under the moniker Le Couturier de la Montre, it felt like a misstep.
The tagline didn’t come out of nowhere of course; it was being used in the brand’s ads since 1963. They really leaned into it in the ’70s when they hired Italian designer Roberta Di Camerino for their women’s collection. But it did suggest that the modern focus wouldn’t be on those tool watch icons, but high-end, high jewellery pieces. And that suggestion wasn’t wrong. And yet, somewhat despite myself, I find myself completely enamoured by the new Polerouter Hardstone Tiger’s Eye.
Let’s get the elephant in the room out of the way first. A mint-condition original Polerouter will set you back £3,000 to around £7,000. For a vintage classic, it’s well-priced. The new 37mm steel version is double that at £14,000. The version here is £62,900. Needless to say, we’ve graduated from tool watch territory here.
The core of the Polerouter Hardstone is its dial. Semi-precious stones – and tiger’s eye specifically – have reached saturation point over the last couple of years. Everyone has a couple. But the Polerouter stands apart for how it uses the stone. Rather than one solid dial, it’s been divided into quarters. These quarters have been paired off, with two quarters sharing the same grain and colour, while the other two share a slightly different shade and a grain going in a different direction. Universal Genève are calling it stone marquetry but that feels like a bit of a stretch given it’s only four pieces.
The result is a natural contrast that not only highlights the crosshair design of the dial, but the mineral charm of the hardstone itself. It’s an aesthetic technique borrowed from fashion called Camaieu. In fact, Universal Genève have another sub-collection of that very name that does the same thing without the hardstone. Here though it makes for one of the most appealing stone dials of the year, which is saying something.
That golden-brown stone dial is framed by the same inner bezel as the Genta-designed original, but in rose gold with sunray brushing and polished indexes. It’s a lovely pairing, verging on the monochromatic. The case too is lifted from the ’50s model, just upsized to 39mm. While it’s still odd seeing a tool watch case in full gold, it works – and even comes with 100m water resistance. You know, just in case you want to take this £60,000 gold watch for a light swim.
Then there’s the bracelet. Universal Genève has exceptional bracelets across the board; it’s arguably the single element they’ve done best. That’s largely because they’ve been drawing on archival Gay Frères designs, a manufacturer that has historically created some of the finest bracelets ever made. The four bricks bracelet here is one of the simpler examples, but between the way it catches the light across each of those curved, polished bricks and the way it drapes over the wrist, it’s certainly not ‘simple’. It’s comfortable, tactile and beautiful. If Universal Genève sold these bracelets separately, they’d be incredibly tempting.
The combination of rose gold case and bracelet is very weighty on the wrist and there’s no risk of you forgetting it’s on. At the same time, it’s not so heavy it becomes uncomfortable. And the gold works so well with the tiger’s eye that it’s firmly worth the weight.
Inside is the UG-110 Microtor movement. Building on Universal Genève’s famous heritage in microrotor movements is a no-brainer and the UG-110 offers a solid, weekend-proof 72-hour power reserve. More importantly, the slimmer, 3.8mm movement lets the entire watch sit at 9.5mm high. It could likely be slimmer, but that would risk changing the Polerouter proportions too much towards pure dress watch. Of course, the movement is also immaculately finished with cotes de Genève bridges, perlage, snailing and a sunbeam engraving on the rose gold microrotor itself.
Universal Genève’s relaunch has taken the legendary brand in a different direction to what many of us hoped. But after getting to grips with what I assumed would be the problem child, I’m nothing but impressed by the Polerouter Hardstone. It’s taken a vintage blueprint and transformed it into a standout metiers d’art piece, and with all the gold and stone, it starts to justify its £62,900 price tag.
Though honestly, if you wanted a steel version, you’d be better off buying vintage.
Price and Specs:
More details at Universal Genève.
