Created in 1913, the Seiko Laurel holds the record for being not only the first wristwatch produced by Seiko but also the first wristwatch made in Japan. Considering that 2026 marks the 145th anniversary of Seiko, it’s only fitting that they would pay tribute to such a foundational piece of their heritage. That’s precisely what they’ve done with the launch of the new Presage Classic ‘Craftsmanship’ Enamel Laurel Dial and Urushi Lacquer Laurel Dial. I’ve had the opportunity to get hands-on with the Enamel edition so let’s start there.
The Presage Classic ‘Craftsmanship’ Enamel Laurel Dial is a pretty faithful modern reinterpretation of the original Laurel. It has a clean, white dial with a subdial at 6 o’clock, which here is a 24-hour display, Breguet numerals and signature red 12 o’clock hour marker. Up close, the dial is much flatter and smoother than some of the press imagery makes it seem – where harsh shadows make the centre of the dial appear stepped. I prefer the smooth look because it makes for a stronger visual continuity across the breadth of the dial.
On the wrist, it sits fairly large by dress watch standards at 39.8mm x 12.4mm. However, that provides room for the enamel display. Plus, the shape of the case is very natural with bevelled lugs leading into a sweeping case body beneath a smooth bezel. The flared crown is knurled for grip like the original Laurel’s crown, but the more angular design keeps it feeling modern. It’s fitted with a black leather strap with deployant clasp.
The second watch in the new Presage Classic ‘Craftsmanship’ duo is the Urushi Lacquer Laurel Dial. Structurally it’s identical but it adds a gold coloured super hard coating to the steel case for a more luxurious appearance. Plus, it swaps the enamel dial for traditional Japanese Urushi lacquer, which gives it a dark, black tone that contrasts with the golden accents across the timing scales and case.
Both versions of the watch house the Seiko calibre 6RH5 automatic with 72-hour power reserve. As part of the 6R series, it’s one of Seiko’s premium movements while the H5 denotes it as the 24-hour subdial variant, as seen in watches like the Tonneau released at the start of the year. It’s visible through the exhibition caseback where you can see the gold coloured rotor that winds the watch as you move it around on your wrist.
Combining a premium movement with a ‘Craftsmanship’ display using traditional Japanese techniques does put these watches among the more expensive models in the Presage range. The Presage Classic ‘Craftsmanship’ Enamel Laurel Dial is £1,250 and the Urushi Lacquer Laurel Dial is £1,400. Given the cultural significance of the Laurel to Japanese watchmaking history, this is not the first and it won’t be the last watch inspired by its legacy. However, comparing it to previous examples like the 2022 and 2023 versions, this is the cleanest and best execution so far.
Price and Specs:
More details at Seiko.
