Raymond Weil is the type of watch brand that is quite happy to let its watches do the talking for them. Their logo isn’t plastered all over sports arenas or race tracks, they’re not on the wrists of A-list celebrities on the red carpet. However, every time you check back on their website there’s usually something new and interesting to see. Recently that was the Toccata Heritage but back in 2023 it was the Millesime Small Seconds a watch so well loved by the community it ended up winning the Challenge Prize at that year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Three years later and on the occasion of the brand’s 50th anniversary, they’re expanding the Millesime Small Seconds collection with new tuxedo style references.
The term ‘tuxedo’ in watchmaking is the sector dial equivalent to a ‘panda’ dial chronograph. Traditionally a black and white display that uses the contrast between the two colours to create a classy and dramatic look to the watch face. To that end, Raymond Weil presents the Millesime Small Seconds with a white minute scale, black hour scale and then central white disc including the small seconds. However, Raymond Weil have evidently been to a modern, Avant Garde tailors recently who has shown them that tuxedos don’t have to be black and white, because they’ve created two alternative colour schemes alongside the more traditional option.
A midnight blue edition with black hour ring remains staunchly formal. It’s a bit darker than a typical tuxedo display because the use of white has been relegated to the numerals and timing scales. It’s also harder to notice the two-tone element of the design as the contrast between the blue and black is more subtle than on the other options. However, I find that subtlety welcome as it makes the watch feel more like an accessory to a nice suit if paired with the right colours – although perhaps I just think that because I own a lot of dark blue ties.
Third in the Millesime Small Seconds tuxedo collection is the red grape edition. It’s the most daring of the colour schemes with a burgundy display paired with a light grey hour ring. It’s maybe more velvet smoking jacket than tuxedo but I could just as easily imagine Brad Pitt pulling off a formal suit in this colour.
Beyond the new colours, this is the Millesime Small Seconds as we know and love it. 39mm diameter steel case with alternating brushed and polished finishing across the facets of its bezel, caseband and lugs. Inside that case and visible through the exhibition caseback is the calibre RW4251, base Sellita, with a 41-hour power reserve. A solid movement and one that’s integral to keeping the watch in an accessible price bracket, which is why it won the GPHG Challenge Category for watches under CHF 2,000 in 2023 (the requirements for the Challenge Category were subsequently changed to CHF 3,000 in later editions).
Inflation over the past three years means the original Millesime Small Seconds is now just over CHF 2,000 at CHF 2,075, or £1,950 on strap and a little more for bracelet. The tuxedo editions follow exactly the same pricing and as they are only available on leather straps, they are also £1,950. Ultimately these new watches are colourway alternatives for the original collection but as I always say, adding more options for collectors to find the watch that truly expresses their own sense of style is never a bad thing.
Price and Specs:
More details at Raymond Weil.
