ochs und junior is in my estimation one of the most underrated independent brands around. With watches designed by one of the legendary watchmakers of the current generation, Ludwig Oechslin, and an aesthetic style that feels genuinely unique. The brand was initially founded in 2006, making 2026 their 20th anniversary year. To kick off celebrations they’re revisiting one of their earliest designs from 2008, the settimanas, which receives a fresh makeover in PVD.
The PVD (physical vapour deposition) coating is not used on the case, which is where the majority of watches would use it. No, the case remains a 36mm, minimalist titanium design with a round body and straight, squared lugs. The PVD is instead used on the dials, of which there are two variants – black and brown.
One of the advantages of PVD is that because the coating is applied layer by layer, you have immense control of the colours, finish and final impression that it creates. That’s why its use makes sense here as it creates intense colours while still revealing the dramatic circular brushed finish of the dial itself. I also really like the playful element that can be found in ochs und junior designs, yes black and brown are very serious colours but they’re paired with pink or gold coloured hands and days of the week indicator to brighten up the piece and add a sense of levity.
The days of the week indicator itself feels like quintessential ochs und junior in its minimalism. No scales, no writing, just a dot of colour that makes its way from 1 to 7 o’clock before looping back around. At the same time as being minimalist it’s not discrete, dominating the dial with its shape. I can’t think of a brand that I get asked ‘what’s that’ more than a relatively standard complication from ochs und junior and that’s part of the magic, reinventing the norm and making watchmaking feel exciting again.
Yet at its core, everything about the settimanas in PVD is very standard and fundamental. The movement inside is not some elaborate in-house piece of virtuoso machinery. It’s the ETA 2824-2 Top Grade, a movement that while slightly rarer these days was once the peak of accessible watchmaking. Which is reflected in the CHF 2,300 (approx. £2,160) price of the watch, which is not a lot for an Oechslin design. I do hope we’ll see a lot more of ochs und junior in their anniversary year, but it’s fun to kick things off with one of their classic models.
Price and Specs:
More details at Ochs und Junior.
