When it comes to watches, most people assumed that it’s all about Switzerland, with a few crumbs doled out to Germany and the UK. But the latest from proud Chinese brand Atelier Wen is showing that in many ways, Europe’s late to the party. Celebrating the ancient dialogue between China and the Middle East – and launched for Dubai Watch Week – this is the Ancestra 垚 (Yáo).
China and the Middle East have been connected culturally and economically since the days of the Silk Road and what was shiny and new for Marco Polo was customary to both regions. And while the Ancestra 垚 (Yáo), created in collaboration with Revolution, isn’t exactly an ancient artifact, it does highlight that connection in Atelier Wen’s signature showcasing of artisanal finishing.
Predominantly that finishing is across the dial, which even by Atelier Wen’s standards is a stunner. The brand enlisted the expertise of Beijing-based Kong Lingjun for the enamelwork, which uses brown, translucent enamel on top of a gratté finished silver base. It’s an unusual finish and one that ends up looking like a woven textile – thematically, that would mean silk, in the varying earthy tones of the Silk Road itself. It’s stunning, and a different look from the brighter colours I’ve come to associate with Atelier Wen.
The dial of course uses Eastern Arabic numerals which almost float above the translucent enamel, interspersed by baguette-cut diamond hour markers. Honestly, I much prefer the painted numerals, but what’s a Dubai Watch Week release without diamonds? Those painted numerals are matched by a motif around the edge in the same white enamel that while technically being Chinese, feels appropriately Arabic too.
The dial is a melting pot, but the case is much more overtly Chinese. Inspired by the Hongshan jade dragon carvings (an artifact from around 4700–2900 BCE), the 38mm stainless steel case is machined with separate lugs for a more sculptural look that’s come to define Atelier Wen. Finished in a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, it’s almost as lovely as the dial. Almost.
Finally, the movement brings a French flavour into the Eastern mix with the Pequinet EPM03. With a 65-hour power reserve, it’s a beautifully finished number from France’s last great movement maker, given a Chinese twist with a hui wen motif around the periphery.
If after all that you were expecting a price tag in line with Atelier Wen’s recent haute horology masterpiece, think again. This combination of beautifully handmade dial, historical storytelling and horological excellence will set you back $5,850, roughly £4,500. If that sounds like a good deal, you’d best be quick. While numbers aren’t limited, the buying window is – and that window closes 12AM GST (8AM GMT) on the 27th of November.
Price and Specs:
More details at Revolution.
What a stunning new release. I’m generally quite conservative in terms of styling, not going for bling or overly fussy dials, and, as indicated in the review, when baguette diamond’s were mentioned, I very nearly stopped reading any further, as diamonds on a watch would normally be a definite no go area for me, but, looking at the photos, my mind was changed completely, baguette diamonds are stylish and “art deco” without the “look at me” bling of other cut’s, and refract the light differently in an “under the radar” manner, so they do work extremely well on this dial, that, along with the other associated details, give this watch a true travel along the silk road experience, which is utterly beautiful. Also as indicated, the cost is a definite bonus, just a pity about the limited time availablity.
Hard as it may seem (coming from me as a critical reviewer), I can’t fault this watch in any way.
Just wish I had a spare £4.5k at the moment, I would purchase one without further hesitation, and that says a lot, as I’m definitely not an impulse buyer. But if a secret Santa is looking for the perfect gift, of a perfect watch (to a less than perfect person), I’m in with a chance.