You know what you’re getting with a microbrand chronograph: something racy, something technical, something that looks and feels stripped from a dashboard, be that a classic racer or a modern performance beast. But just because the humble stopwatch complication is so closely associated with trackside timekeeping doesn’t mean it always has to be. What if you wanted something a little more refined, and accessible? Say hello to Favre-Bulle.
Founder Alexandre Favre-Bulle isn’t your usual microbrand founder, the entrepreneur who sees a hole in the market and aims to fill it or someone for whom design comes first, mechanics second. He is a graduate of Geneva Watchmaking School and cut his teeth at Rolex (who, incidentally, have arguably the most famous chronograph watch in the world). He knows what makes a solid watch. Case in point, the brand’s debut Three Peaks collection.
The Three Peaks Chronograph took two years of development and it shows. Alexandre defines the collection as “minimalist, purposeful, refined”, a trio of evocative words that are hard to disagree with.
Take Favre-Bulle’s minimalist approach to classical Swiss design. Each watch is stripped back compared to other chronographs, with just a coloured dial, three steel-ringed subdials and a round, tactile steel case. There’s no tachymeter, no overly technical scales, just a logo and a subtle 60-minute scale on the rehaut. Even the minimal typography on the subdial illustrates that it’s not a watch for pitlane technicians, but for would-be collectors that appreciate the chronograph as an object rather than a tool. As Alexandre says, “Unlike most chronographs that crowd the dial with numerous graduations and markings, our watch embraces a minimalist aesthetic, resulting in a cleaner, more refined look.”
As for purposeful, that’s where the movement comes in. The purpose of Favre-Bulle wasn’t just to offer a handsome chronograph at a fair price – though that was a big part of it – but to offer one of the best. Sure, Alexandre could have opted for a Seiko Mecaquartz like so many other small, fledgling brands. Instead, he went for a top-line LaJoux-Perret L112 calibre – a column wheel chronograph.
I won’t get into the column wheel vs cam-lever debate, but in collectors’ circles the former is by far the more desired of the two. They both have their benefits. But there’s little debate that column wheels tend to be pricier, but offer a far smoother feel and generally superior timing experience. It’s also the kind of thing you only normally find in much, much higher-end watches. To get one in a classically handsome wrapper at the £2,000 mark should be catnip to any chronograph purists reading this.
Finally, there’s refinement, the part that ties the minimalism and purpose together. And that refinement comes from the design inspiration behind the Three Peaks which, no prizes for guessing, is all about the Swiss mountains. “In today’s fast-paced world, our lives are often scheduled down to the minute – a constant rhythm of tasks and responsibilities. Rarely do we take a moment to pause and be present. Time spent in Swiss nature reminds us of the value of slowing down. Among the stillness of the mountains and lakes, there’s a natural sense of balance that allows us to focus on the moment rather than what comes next. It’s this feeling of calm and clarity that inspires our chronograph design.”
In short, Favre-Bulle’s approach to the chronograph is more elevated than most because it doesn’t feel the need to shout about its horsepower or try too hard to ingratiate itself with the motoring crowd. It’s a design about taking time out as much as it is keeping it – hence the minimal design that lets the functionality breathe and the column wheel movement that celebrates the smooth feel of an exceptional chronograph.
But if all that’s a bit too heady for what is, when you get right down to it, an affordable chronograph watch, then that’s fine too. The fact that it’s a damn handsome watch should suffice.
Speaking of, the Three Peaks comes in a fitting trio of colours. There’s a deep, warm sunset red, a zeitgeisty ice blue and the clean, crisp White Peaks. The first two have polished, bevelled hands, while those on the white are heat blued for a bit more aesthetic contrast, the flash of blue sky on an Alpine peak. A similar difference comes on the straps, with the coloured dials on brown leather straps, the White Peaks on blue alligator. There’s not a perforated racing strap in sight.
If you’re having a hard time deciding on your preferred colour though, you’re not alone. Even Alexandre can’t decide on the Sophie’s Choice between two of them: “It’s a toss-up between the White Peaks and Ice Blue dial. The White Peaks offers a clean, timeless elegance that pairs effortlessly with any outfit, while the Ice Blue adds a subtle pop of colour for those who want to stand out. If I had to pick just one, I’d go with the Ice Blue, but both dials have their own unmistakable charm.”
The bottom line is that Favre-Bulle isn’t a groundbreaking new watchmaker, but then it’s not trying to be. Instead, their debut is something altogether more timeless: a downright lovely, perfectly Swiss chronograph.
More details at Favre-Bulle.
