Stollenwurm is a new watch brand operating in the high end, luxury sector of the watch industry. Conceptually they position themselves as a brand focusing on mythology and the esoteric. For example, the brand’s name and logo are based on the Stollenwurm, a cat-headed dragon-like creature from Swiss mythology said to be a guardian of the deep mountain caves and which can be violent or benevolent. Their two inaugural collections are presented at Geneva Watch Days and they are the Series 1 Astrological Day-Date and Series 2 Tarot Metiers d’Art. For now, let’s focus on the Series 1.
Astrology, while now viewed with scepticism by many, was once our primary way of understanding time and the phenomena of the world around us. The calendar was mapped in relation to the movements of sun, moon and planets in the sky. After all, that’s where we get the names of the days of the week, they are traced back to the Roman planets translated via Norse traditions. Tuesday being Tyr’s day being Mars’ day and so on.
The Stollenwurm Series 1 Astrological Day-Date pays tribute to the astrological root of the modern calendar. At 6 o’clock on the dial thyere is a wedge-shaped window which serves are the watch’s titular day-date function. A lower disc displays the date while above that sits a series of seven symbols that represent the astrological signs associated with each day. Venus’ cross for Friday, the sun’s circle for Sunday, etc.
That day-date complication is held in a dark grey dial with a sector style layout decorated with net-like engraving. The Arabic numerals are bold with a lot of visual presence, with 11 of them in black DLC and one in light ruthenium (a metal more rare than platinum). That silver-white numeral essentially serves as the watch’s limited edition number because only 12 of these watches are being produced and which numeral is white is different on each.
Zooming out from the dial to the case is where we really see that this is a high-end, luxury watch. Because while the dial is well made and clean, there’s not much to suggest a luxurious element to it. The case though is made from platinum with a tantalum bezel. Two very rare and prestigious metals in watchmaking. What’s more is the round design leads into an integrated bracelet made from a combination of the same metals. The case itself measures 42mm x 9.65mm, which is a great sizing.
Powering the watch is the calibre WU-A1001-DD, produced in a collaboration between Stollenwurm, Télôs Watch and TMH, two Swiss ateliers known for their bespoke movement work. It’s an automatic movement with a tungsten micro-rotor which supplies a double barrel system that provides a power reserve of 80-hours. The bridge work is stunning, creating the image of the looping body of a Stollenwurm around the various exposed components like the balance wheel. They note that pictured in the images is a prototype because the final version will be produced in titanium.
For pricing, they’ve given it the round figure of CHF 100,000 (approx. £92,350). For your inaugural watch to be a six figure, platinum timepiece with a custom movement, to say that Stollenwurm are ambitious is an understatement. And it’s an ambition that I absolutely adore seeing. Finding an unexplored creative outlet such as Swiss mythology is very fun and it has the horological specs to back it up.
Price and Specs:
More details at Stollenwurm.
Very interesting watches. I viewed the Day-Date and the Metiers d’Art (with the High Priestess dial). As gorgeous as the pix are, they don’t quite do justice to the combination of metals, finishes, and above all the dials. Stunning in a quiet way. This is something else!