
It was only yesterday with the release of the Piaget Altiplano Khaki collection that I was discussing the matter of ultra-thin tourbillons and world records. While they’ve chosen a slightly different battlefield, Bianchet now have a record of their own. With the release of the Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire, they claim the title for producing the thinnest sapphire case tourbillon watch on the market.

To call it a niche record is something of an understatement, but the competition is still as fierce as any. Greubel Forsey, Richard Mille, Cvstos, Girard-Perregaux and Agelocer all produce sapphire cased tourbillon watches. The thinnest of those is Agelocer’s Tourbillon Full Sapphire at 11mm. Bianchet’s UltraFino Sapphire now undercuts that at a thickness of 9.8mm, which in terms of thinness records is a significant margin. It’s important to note that there are thinner sapphire cases in general, we’re specifically talking about tourbillons here.

Sapphire cases are notoriously difficult to produce due to the material’s extreme hardness and scratch resistance, meaning that it’s virtually impossible to shape without the right set of specialist tools and production techniques. However, the results are worth it, creating a dramatic case that allows light to pass through it highlight the inner workings of the movement from all angles.

Though the UltraFino Sapphire is special because through the sapphire you can see a white rubber band around the edge of the design. This band serves as the watch’s gasket, improving the water resistance rating from 30m to 50m, a small but significant increase in comparison to those other high end sapphire tourbillons like the GP Quasar. It’s what leads Bianchet to describe the watch as a practical sports-luxury timepiece instead of a display watch reserved for cabinets. Though I’m not sure how many people would seriously consider a CHF 85,500 (approx. £78,700) tourbillon watch a legitimate daily wearer.

The tourbillon movement is also an important factor in allowing the watch to be as slim as it is. It’s the UT01 automatic movement in grade 5 titanium with Fibonacci inspired rotor. The flying tourbillon takes pride of place at 6 o’clock beneath the central hour and minute hands. It’s a display and movement familiar to the existing titanium and carbon editions of the UltraFino with the new sapphire version completing the material triumvirate.
Price and Specs:
More details at Bianchet.