For far too long, women’s watches have been considered a sideshow compared to their macho, masculine counterparts. Downsized versions of established models with a scattering of diamonds, a flash of pink, maybe some pearl. Watchmakers have been guilty of not exactly giving them 100%.
This year however there have been some fantastic women’s watches. I don’t just mean watches that rank highly in the pantheon of women’s jewellery, I mean timepieces that serious male watch collectors might well find themselves fawning over.
So, from high complications to great colours and nary a diamond in sight, these are my five favourite grail-worthy women’s watches for men.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic Mother-of-Pearl
A smaller sized Fifty Fathoms is something we’ve all been clamouring for, but when we all saw what form that finally took – a bright pink automatic that looks more like a Swatch collab than a serious Blancpain – a few of us were a touch put out. But I’d argue that the second watch in the 38.2mm women’s collection is a winner no matter your wrist. Yes, mother-of-pearl tends to be shorthand for femininity, but here it has a fume gradient, darker at the edge, lighter in the middle, that makes the whole dial look like solidified smoke. Paired with the otherwise standard Fifty Fathoms bezel and rose gold case, it’s more of a metiers d’art edition than it is a straight-up women’s model. I could wear it, you could wear it and the likelihood is that we both really, really want to.
More details at Blancpain.
Hermés Cut Le Temps Suspendu
Even when the automatic Cut was launched in 2024, I wanted it. Why it was marketed solely as a women’s watch I have no idea. Between the shape, size and applied numerals, it was the definitive gender-neutral watch. Well, this year they’ve upsized it a bit, given it a lovely burgundy dial and added Hermés’ spectacular Suspension of Time module. At the press of a button, your watch stops telling the time. At a second press, it snaps back to the right time. It’s even less useful than a moonphase and I absolutely love it – even if it wasn’t already crowning a women’s watch I’m worryingly jealous over.
More details at Hermes.
Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Perpetual Calendar 7340/1R-001
Finally, Patek is paying some horological attention to their women’s Twenty-4 collection! And they’re going hard with the collection’s first high complication in the form of a perpetual calendar. It’s a pretty straightforward take – no in-line shenanigans here – but with applied, gold-rimmed indexes against a silk-patterned (linen with airs and graces) silver dial. It has it all, wrapped in an elegant, slightly curvaceous gold case that hints at its femininity but without anything as gauche as diamonds. This isn’t just a great women’s watch; it’s one I’d stack against a surprising number of its stablemates.
More details at Patek Philippe.
F.P. Journe Élégante 40mm Titanium
This is one of the poster children for women’s grail watches that most men want. Hell, most of the times you’ll spot one of these is on a man’s wrist alongside an impeccably tailored suit. The 40mm tonneau case is made from lightweight titanium, a sportiness at glorious odds with a dial more suited to a carriage clock. It’s powered by a quartz-and-then-some movement, the calibre 1210, so not only is it a rare men’s grail designed for women, but it’s an electronically-powered one at that. It’s a freak of nature, making it one of the low-key coolest Journes around.
More details at F.P. Journe.
Piaget Sixtie
The Sixtie might, as the name suggests, be a throwback to the funky dress watches of Piaget past, but if you’re a fan of the likes of Anoma or Grandeur with their weirdly shaped cases, this pebble-smooth beauty is for you. Yes, it’s small at 29mm. Yes, it’s quartz. But between the unusual case shape, stepped, Warhol Watch-esque bezel and charming two-tone steel and rose gold colourway, it makes a great proper dress watch option. Wear it to your next gallery opening and you’ll be in good company.
More details at Piaget.
