When the zodiac was created approximately 5,000 years ago, it was integral to how humanity understood the world and timekeeping. In honour of this tradition and its importance, Vacheron Constantin have released a full set of 12 zodiac watches, called the Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial collection.
First, let’s talk a little more about the origins of the zodiac and why it has/had a place in science and horology (rather than just determining what your lucky numbers are). There are 88 accepted constellations, so why are these 12 singled out for significance? Well, they’re the 12 constellations that lie on the plane of the ecliptic, which means that they are the stars that sit in the night sky along points of the sun’s trajectory during the day. Due to the Earth’s rotated axis, as the year progresses, the constellation that most closely matches that trajectory changes. This is why each symbol of the zodiac is associated with a different time of year. In turn, this is why the full cycle of 12 became our earliest understanding of the concept of a year. In short, the zodiac helped to define the parameters of time as it was being discovered.
While it has since been supplanted by more accurate research, such foundational science that helped not only identify the Earth’s orbit but also seasons is clearly worth celebrating. Which Vacheron Constantin has done with a full set of 12 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial zodiac watches produced in 39mm white gold cases with sapphire gem-set cases designed to evoke the night sky. The dials of the watches are also blue and feature sunray brushing with guilloché depictions of each of the symbols that are in turn set with diamonds in the position of the primary stars of the constellation they represent.
Guilloché is traditionally an art that makes use of abstract patterns with no identifiable figures so its use here is unusual. Think of your traditional Clous de Paris or basketweave patterns that, while beautiful, are incapable of creating specific images. However, back in 2021 Vacheron Constantin began experimenting with how to turn this traditional style into a figurative art for a unique piece that was based on the zodiac as well, specifically Leo. By using a system of triangles that are separated into bars, they could create the illusion of texture and shape in the same style as a low polygon animation style or video game character.
In order to add some extra definition to the most complex symbols, namely the figures that include human elements and animal faces, Vacheron have integrated some lighter blue opaline elements. It helps differentiate between the texture of clothing and skin for example, or Sagittarius’s horse torso and human torso, which is utterly ripped by the way. Built into the guilloché are thin golden lines depicting the constellation, accented by diamonds set in the position of the primary stars. It’s quite poetic because the etymology of the word constellation can be interpreted as “set with stars”.
On a horological level, the 12 watches of the Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial all house the same movement, the calibre 2160. It’s Vacheron’s ultra-thin tourbillon movement with an 80-hour power reserve supplied by a peripheral rotor. A peripheral rotor is one that slides around the edge of the movement, typically on ball bearings, rather than being anchored to the centre of the movement with a wedge-shaped oscillating weight as normal. The benefit is that you have an unobstructed view of the rest of the movement through the exhibition caseback. With its immaculate finishing there’s no surprise that it has been awarded the Poinçon de Genève.
As part of the Métiers d’Art series, production of the Tribute to The Celestial is limited and the watches are only available via Vacheron Constantin’s boutiques. As for price, as the saying goes… If you need to ask.
Price and Specs:
More details at Vacheron Constantin.
