Is it controversial to say that Vacheron Constantin are the most interesting of the watch industry’s holy trinity? Audemars Piguet are just churning out ever more versions of the Royal Oak and while Patek Philippe surprise us on occasion, on an haute horology level they haven’t touched the heights of the Grand Master Chime in a while. Vacheron Constantin though feel like they’re actively striving to push boundaries and create spectacular watches. They just released the most complicated wristwatch in the world but there’s no time to rest as they’ve now released a new unique piece haute horological creation: the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface.
I must admit that’s one of the more opaque names for one of Vacheron Constantin’s grand complications. But if you decipher it a bit, it does make a certain amount of sense. Temporis Duo can be interpreted as ‘timing duo’. A reference to the twin hands of the split-seconds chronograph function that occupies the centre of the watch’s sapphire dial. A split-seconds complication (aka rattrapante) uses two chronograph hands superimposed over each other that can be started simultaneously and stopped separately to track two separate events. It’s the most prestigious form of chronograph.
In addition to the chronograph, the watch features a minute repeater and a tourbillon, two more high end complications. The tourbillon is particularly special because not only does it feature the signature rotating balance common to all tourbillons, but also it utilises a spherical hairspring. You can see it through the skeletonised tourbillon architecture at 6 o’clock and indeed, instead of spiralling outward on a single plane, it descends down the central column of the tourbillon in a ball-like shape. The concept behind the shape is that the weight and energy is more evenly distributed across the spring, diminishing the impact of holding the watch in different positions. The effect is to boost the isochronism of the balance beyond what the tourbillon cage already provides. There have been a few different takes on the classic spiral hairspring in the recent past, ranging from cylindrical to whatever the Zenith Defy LAB was, but this is one of the coolest.
It’s all well and good for a watch to be mechanically excellent but that means very little if the result is ugly. Fortunately, VC have paid attention to the appearance of the watch in equal measure and it might just be the best looking openworked watch I’ve seen all year. The brushed finishing and bevelled edges of each bridge is flawless. The 0.5mm sapphire dial upon which the subdials appear to float is pristine and those subdials themselves are gorgeous with gold, grey and green accents with an off-white base.
The case itself is made from pink gold and measures 45mm in diameter with a thickness of 16.4mm. Pretty substantial, but not unexpected of a grand complication, especially one that needs to contain the chiming architecture of a minute repeater alongside a split-seconds chrono and tourbillon. Unique pieces like this though tend to spend most of their time on display rather than on the wrist so size is less of an issue.
Between haute horological creations like the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, the Overseas and Patrimony, Vacheron Constantin are one of the most well rounded high end maisons out there.
Price and Specs:
More details at Vacheron Constantin.
Yes, it’s a VC
Yes, it’s technically superb
Yes, it looks amazing (but where is the dial).
Yes (taking all of the above into account), it will be expensive (no price listed, a little like the old Rolls Royce viewpoint, “if you have to ask the price, then you can’t afford it”), so, another watch for the Uber rich.
I personally don’t get the open frame / face watch craze, as you generally need laser vision to read the time, plus, with the amazing visual appeal of so many recent “plain dial” watches (guilloche, enamel etc), why the need for open frame.
So, on a positive point, when compared to other watches featured on OT, that must fall into a similar (hefty) price position, it at least looks like a proper watch and is aimed at “old money” types that appreciate class, style and elegance, rather than “new money” that is generally associated with big, bold bling, so scores on the dress watch for the well dressed front.