
Nomos Glashütte are one of the industry leaders when it comes to modern minimalist design. What I mean by that is you can see the influences of their German, Bauhaus roots, with the focus on functionality and clarity, while at the same time they’re more willing to be expressive with colour and shape than other minimalist brands. Last year’s 175th anniversary collection was a beautiful riot of colour. Today’s release though is on the more restrained end of the Nomos spectrum, taking the popular Ahoi Neomatik 36mm with white silver dial and reimagining it in the form of the larger Nomos Glashütte Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date.


With a steel case measuring 38mm, the Ahoi Neomatik is a fun mix of dressy and sporty. The lines of its round shape are very slim, especially around the lugs and it only measures 9.9mm in thickness. Yet it has built up crown guards giving it a strong presence on the wrist. Those guards are also more than purely aesthetic too because with a 200m water resistance rating, the watch is far more robust than you might expect.

Previously the Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date was only available with sky blue, sand khaki and Atlantic blue dials, so the addition of the white silver helps to round out the collection. It’s more restrained, pairing well with traditional office wear. Though that’s not to say it does away completely with Nomos’ signature use of colour because the central hands are sky blue while the small seconds hand at 6 o’clock is orange, set against a snailed subdial. Naturally being a date model, there’s a date window located at 3 o’clock, which is nice and large to help with legibility.

Powering the watch is the in-house DUW 6101 automatic calibre. It has a 42-hour power reserve and is finished in great fashion with the Saxon signature Glashütte three-quarters plate. One of the most significant features of the movement is actually the patented Neomatik date complication, which allows the date to be corrected both forwards and backwards, where most are unidirectional.

For price, the Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date is £3,720. That reflects their position as a mid-range luxury watch brand producing in-house movements and robust, sporty cases. On a personal level I prefer Nomos’ more colourful options but the white silver makes a lot of sense as an expansion for the collection, opening it up to collectors who are perhaps less extroverted.
Price and Specs:
38.5mm diameter x 9.8mm thickness (525.SB)
stainless steel, bipartite, screw-down crown, crown guard
More details at Nomos.