To a modern collector you’d be forgiven for thinking that Girard-Perregaux are a two-trick pony. You have the ever-popular Laureato and the haute horological Bridges. However, as their Legacy Series of limited-edition heritage reinterpretations reminds us, they have produced a huge number of watch models in their 234 years. There was the Casquette Legacy Edition and now the Deep Diver Legacy Edition, which is being launched in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department (why this watch is a collab rather than any other, I have no idea, seems like an odd choice).
The Deep Diver traces its heritage back to 1969, placing it towards to the tail end of the 1960s dive watch boom. Interestingly, with its 14-sided bezel, you can also see the early design influences of the integrated bracelet sports watch and quasi-industrial aesthetic that would come to dominate the 70s and 80s. In fact, it preceded Gerald Genta’s revolutionary Royal Oak and Nautilus from 1972 and ‘76 respectively by several years. GP would also later consolidate that aesthetic themselves into the Laureato in 1975. It really feels like the Deep Diver is the Missing Link between the transition from dive watch supremacy to sports watch that happened in the late 20th century (though of course dive watches remained popular too).
Focussing in on the Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition, it features a case design based on the original 1969 version, though the dial is inspired by a slightly later 1971 model. With that in mind, it is very much a reinterpretation for a modern audience rather than a faithful heritage revival. The cushion (almost tonneau) case measures 40.3mm x 38mm with 200m water resistance in lightweight but durable Grade 5 titanium. It has a radial brushed finish with that signature 14-sided bezel polished to stand out. There are two crowns, one at 4 o’clock for setting the time and one at 2 o’clock for rotating the internal dive timer scale.
The dial is quite the riot of colour. It has a central orange disc surrounded by a white, cog-shaped minute scale with orange hour markers on each of its teeth. The gaps between those teeth are then dark blue in a slightly darker shade than the blue dive scale around the periphery. Perhaps it’s because I’m being led by the promotional images they’ve created but it really does capture that 1970s block colour poster style you’d expect to see at the local lido. The term Girard-Perregaux use is retro-futurism and that works too – it actually reminds me of the posters for the new Fantastic Four film which also lean heavily on retro-futurism and have blue and orange prominent via the signature costumes and the skin of The Thing and Human Torch. #nerdlife.
Powering the Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition is the manufacture calibre GP03300, an automatic movement with 46-hour power reserve. Automatic winding is actually thematically linked with the Deep Diver because the original edition featured GP’s Gyromatic winding system, which was a major step forward in winding efficiency for the brand. You can see the movement (just about) through the translucent blue exhibition caseback decorated with trident motif. The movement itself is finished to the nines with a combination of circular and straight Côtes de Genève, polished bevels, polished screws and circular graining as well as gilded engraving.
As for price and availability, as part of the Legacy Series it’s a limited edition and there are just 350 pieces available. It’s priced at £12,900 and is being sold through Girard-Perregaux’s retail sites and online by Bamford Watch Department. The Bamford logo is stealthily included below the central hand stack, while above the hand stack is a retro version of Girard-Perregaux’s logo. I really like this watch, which shouldn’t be a surprise as I like orange watches. But on a more serious note, what I really appreciate about it is the risk GP have taken. They could play it safe with another Laureato but no, they have swung for the fences and it really works.
Price and Specs:
More details at Bamford.
Definitely one for Michael due to the extensive use of orange.
In terms of looks, it’s more of a funky retro piece rather than what is perceived as a dive watch, but that’s not a bad thing IMO, as there are way too many dive format watches on the market, so having the water resistance and the style, it falls into the category of being a surfer dude watch, but at a cost of close to £13k, not really likely to be seen at the average beach waiting for the swells to start.