It’s an anniversary year for Vacheron Constantin. Well technically so is every year, but 2025 is specifically a big one. It’s 270 years since Vacheron Constantin was founded, showing the extreme longevity of the brand that is today regarded as one of the ‘big three’ along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. To celebrate this landmark milestone they’ve released a Traditionnelle collection dedicated to some of the major innovations and complications that VC has become renowned for. We got hands on with the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface, and it’s a beauty.
In as simple terms as possible, they’ve taken every conceivable signature element of Vacheron Constantin design and crammed it into a single watch. Perpetual Calendar, check. Tourbillon, check. Retrograde date, check. Maltese Cross motif, check. Precious metal case, check. It really is a greatest hits of Vacheron Constantin watchmaking, and I kind of love it for that.
Getting into the specifics, it measures 41mm x 10.94mm in platinum. Pair that case with the white dial and it technically meets the criteria for the Excellence Platine subcollection, but VC have decided not to use that term for the anniversary releases, keeping them as a separate capsule collection. Perhaps because of the openworked display and textured dial. That texture is worth focussing on in more detail because it’s fantastic. It’s a sort of straight line engraving separated into sections that are engraved in different directions that overlap at a single point to create the shape of a Maltese Cross. The way it all weaves together is mesmerising to look at.
Of course, another significant portion of the display is given over to the openworked perpetual calendar. That means transparent days of the week, months and leap year indicator sitting above satin brushed and perlage gears. The other calendar functions include the moonphase at 6 o’clock and the retrograde date at 12 o’clock, which is quintessential Vacheron. The movement that’s on display is the calibre 2460 QPR31/270, an automatic with a 40-hour power reserve. You can also view it through the exhibition caseback on the reverse side.
On the wrist it sits comfortably with a dark blue alligator leather strap. The fact that it fits so many complications into its 10.94mm thick case is pretty astonishing. Though while we were spending time with this watch it was continually against the backdrop of people discussing the insane Solaria Ultra Grand Complication La Première on display nearby. Now that’s a watch that redefines what it means to be a grand complication wristwatch.
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface is a limited edition of 370 pieces, 100 more than the 270 anniversary number. But if Vacheron Continue to make watches like this backed up by other collections like the Overseas, Patrimony and Classique line, then I can easily picture them reaching that 370th anniversary. Between the haute horological movement and platinum case, it’s no surprise that the price is £91,000.
Price and Specs:
More details at Vacheron Constantin.
I almost know before I commit anything in writing, that people will be saying that Dezza is on his high horse again, railing against the absurdity of the price, well yes, no apologies from me on this point. I know it’s a VC, but the price is the price, which is ludicrous.
The watch face is beautiful with the intricate hand-guilloché detail but not enough of it is visible, that is because they have cut away, a vast tract to display the intricate detail of the movement, why? The fact that it is open worked virtually negates the visibility of the dates features, particularly the small feature located between the 4 & 5 o’clock position.
The dial is the main beauty of this piece, so for me, that should be more of a feature than viewing the internal mechanism, if that is important, then just turn the watch over and view the gubbins through the crystal case back.
So, another case of losing the plot to showcase something that can be seen from another angle, less is more, ditch the cutaway feature and showcase the dial.