Arcange are a French brand named after historic French aviator Jean Mermoz, or more specifically his nickname, Archangel. Mermoz was active throughout the 1920s and 30s prior to disappearing in 1936 and as such, Arcange have taken the prominent Art Deco design language of that period as their primary horological inspiration. That’s expressed through the launch of the second series of their Arcange Automatic Sector collection. Available via Kickstarter from March 28th.
Compared to the first series, the new Arcange Automatic Sector features an upgraded movement, a sleeker case design and it also swaps from a small seconds display to a central 3-hand display. Starting with the case, it’s a very vintage appropriate 37.2mm in diameter with a thickness of 9.5mm. That overall thickness is the same as the original but the flanks of the watch have been thinned to give it a more elegant profile. It’s produced in steel with alternating brushed and polished finishing.
There are six variants being produced, each with a distinctive colourway that draws influence from modern and historical references. The AS01 Polar Grey is arguably the most traditional with its white and grey colours paired with blue accents including the central alpha hands. Next is AS03 Field, which as the name suggests takes a military approach with its black, grained finish and old radium lume with lozenge hands. It also adds more prominent Arabic numerals and a larger minute track rather than the railway design found on the other models.
AS04 Paros Blue takes a more modern approach with a vibrant sunray brushed dial in blue paired with dark grey. Next is AS06 Salmon, which is virtually the same except that instead of blue it’s salmon and it’s also the only edition to feature Roman numerals. The anthracite colour on the hands has been achieved with a dark gun grey PVD coating.
Last up are a pair of more luxurious Arcange Automatic Sector collection models. They’re the AS05-B and AS05-G, standing for Black Lacquered and Green Lacquered respectively. Not only are their dials presented in a matte lacquer of their titular colour, which adds a smooth finish and intense colour to the dials, but also their cases have been given a rose gold PVD coating. Where the steel models have a daily wearer practicality to them that coincides with Arcange’s aviation inspiration, these two feel much more like elegant dress watches.
All six of the dials are attractive in their own right. Personally, I find it very difficult to choose between the military charm of the AS03 Field and the rich, matte green of the AS05-G. Regardless which version you prefer, beneath the dial is housed the Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve. It’s a stalwart of the industry due to its great value and reliability. Plus, it’s so ubiquitous that any service centre worth their salt should be able to care for it.
You also have a choice of solid caseback for practicality or if you’d like more of a display piece, there’s an exhibition caseback for an extra €29. As for the Arcange Automatic Sector Collection’s overall price, that depends when you decide to order it as it has several pre-order options on Kickstarter. 48 hours early backer €435, earlybird €455, Kickstarter €487, retail €645 (approx. £360/£380/£410/£540).
Price and Specs:
More detail at Arcange.
