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Leica Get Colourful with New ZM 12 39mm Collection

Leica ZM 12

When I think about Leica’s watches, my mind immediately goes to the ZM 1 and ZM 2 whether in monochrome or with steel coloured accents. They’re dark, serious watches that reflect the intense focus and technological acumen of Leica as brand. However, when they released the ZM 11 they began to deviate away from the serious look with more colours and more extravagant styles. They’re building on that with the launch of a follow-up model, the Leica ZM 12.

Leica ZM 12
Leica ZM 12

The new watch has a 39mm diameter case with a circular design and gently sloped bezel. There’s an oversize crown at 3 o’clock making it easy to adjust the time and wind the movement. What stands out the most about it physically is the lugs, which are quasi-integrated. They’re formed by single, wide, flat bars that emerge from the case at 12 and 6 o’clock that then lead into the steel bracelet, technical textile strap or rubber strap. The scale-like pattern of the bracelet reminds me of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner.

Leica ZM 12

The dial features the same dual layered texture as the ZM 11, with the addition of a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. In terms of colours there’s Blue Orange, Silver Grey, Olive Black and Chocolate Black. Notably the first three of those are in steel cases while the Chocolate Black is in titanium, which you can tell from its matte finish and darker grey tone.

The Blue Orange is the most colourful design Leica have made to date and the vibrant colours give the watch a particularly energetic, sporty vibe. In contrast the Chocolate Black feels very luxurious, like the wooden teak flooring of a boat, similar to the texture found on the Radiomir Eilean from Panerai. That luxe vibe is heightened by the rose gold-coloured accents of the hour markers and hands.

Leica ZM 12

Beneath the surface is the automatic Leica Calibre LA-3002, produced in close collaboration with Chronode. It has an accuracy of -4/+6 seconds per day and a power reserve of 60-hours, which are really solid specs. It’s also been tested in five positions ensuring a high level of precision, similar to the tests undertaken by chronometers.

Leica ZM 12

In terms of pricing and availability, prices sit between £5,735 – £6,865 depending on the colourway and strap combination and they’re being released in two waves. The first wave consists of the ZM 12 Steel Silver Grey, ZM 12 Steel Olive Black and ZM 12 Titanium Chocolate Black, which will be available from February 27th at Leica boutiques, their online store and authorised retailers. The second wave is the rather lonely ZM 12 Steel Blue Orange being released in April.

Price and Specs:

Model: Leica ZM 12
Case: 39mm diameter, stainless steel or titanium
Dial: Blue, silver, brown or green
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Leica calibre LA-3002, automatic, 38 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Textile, rubber or stainless steel or titanium bracelet
Price: £5,250 (blue orange, silver grey and olive black), £5,700 (chocolate black)
Rubber strap - £475
Fabric strap - £660
Clou se paris strap - £600/£645
Stainless steel bracelet - £990
Titanium bracelet - £1,165 (chocolate black only)

More details at Leica.

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About the author

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He's a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better. Recent purchase: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation. Grail watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921.