Its been almost a year since Czapek debuted their newest collection, the Promenade, with the launch of the Goutte D’eau. With its rippled grand feu enamel dial, it’s an impressive work of art that sold out almost instantly. How do you follow that up? Well, Czapek’s answer is the new Promenade Plissé.
If you’re not up on your French, Plissé means pleated, as in the sharp folds of fabric used in certain clothing styles, typically dresses and skirts. The relevance of the name is immediately available to see across the dial with its sharp ridges and asymmetrical pleated facets. Like the Goutte D’eau, the asymmetry stems from the small seconds subdial at 4:30, with Czapek describing the subdial as a heavy weight dropped onto a pleated fabric and distorting the shape.
In order to create the dial Czapek worked with their partners at Metalem to develop a new stamping technique capable of creating the sharp, angular pattern. A further consideration in the design of the dial is the applied indexes, which rest atop the pleats. It was important to make sure they fit within the contours of the dial in a visually satisfying manner, which is why they sit at satisfying angles in relation to the pleats around them such as 90 degrees, 45 degrees, etc.
Building on the whole idea of a fabric dial, the Czapek Promenade Plissé comes in three colours commonly seen in tailoring: rose, ivory and pearl white. It’s a good assortment of colours that’s flexible enough to make the model feel unisex. That’s despite the surface level femininity of the pink and also the smaller 38mm size of the steel case. Though with the recent popularity of vintage proportions I think it’s contentious to even suggest 38mm is specifically feminine.
Beneath the pleated dial is the in-house calibre SXH5, a micro-rotor movement with a 60-hour power reserve. It powers the central hours and minutes with partially skeletonised hands as well as the off-set small seconds subdial. It’s visible through an exhibition caseback allowing you to admire the micro-rotor and delicate, exposed bridges.
In terms of availability, each of the three Czapek Promenade Plissé colours is limited to 18 pieces, meaning there’s a total of 54 up for grabs. Considering that’s half the number of Goutte D’eau that were produced, I expect the Plissé to sell out just as fast, especially considering that on paper it should be more accessible than its enamel predecessor.
Price and Specs:
More details at Czapek.
What a trio of beautiful watches. All three are equally gorgeous. The case styling is just the right level of curvaceousness bringing a hint of the art deco. I can’t find fault (well, the limited availability and cost are the downsides), but the watches, wow. Hard to choose a favourite, – I wouldn’t normally go for pink, but it is lovely! On reflection, my personal favourite is the ivory dial paired with the clay coloured suede strap, they have definitely nailed all features. If they want someone to road test it for lifetime wearability, then look no further for a volunteer! It is a top notch dress watch, but still crossing over into the modern world of slight dressing down for everyday wear. Would I buy one, well yes, funds permitting.