Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech is a Stunning Reinterpretation of a Classic

In case you’ve not been keeping up with the slew of releases that have just been unveiled at Watches & Wonders, 2023 is the year of the Radiomir for Panerai. But while pieces like the Otto Giorni and it’s California-dialled alter ego might bang the heritage drum harder than Lars Ulrich, that’s not all they’re doing. After all, no Frogman-worthy Italian diver would historically have used a cutting-edge precious metal alloy á la the new Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech.

At 40mm, the new Radiomir Quaranta is smaller than we’ve come to expect from Panerai. That’s not a negative; paired with the elegant, cushion-shaped silhouette of the collection, it’s possibly the closest thing to a classical dress watch Panerai has ever done, especially given its metal.

Said metal is Panerai’s in-house alloy, Goldtech, basically, a stronger, more hardwearing version of rose gold with more copper and platinum in it. That elegance is amped up to red carpet levels with a white sandwich dial and beige SuperLuminova that almost matches the colour of the Goldtech case and hands.

Let’s be honest, this isn’t a diving watch, no matter the Radiomir’s military heritage. It’s a rose gold-adjacent slice of cushion-cased, Florentine-flavoured elegance with 50m water resistance. It shouldn’t even see the water. That doesn’t stop it being downright lovely. And powered by a P.900 calibre automatic movement with 3-adays of power reserve, there’s still plenty of respectable watchmaking in there too.