Customers say a lot about a watch brand. Do they pair their timepiece with a vintage Jaguar E-Type or a Lamborghini Huracan? Are they artistically inclined or militaristically utilitarian? The wrist a watch sits on is just as indicative of a watchmaker’s philosophies as the timepieces themselves – so it’s rather telling that, for Vulcain, said wrists include those of US Presidents.
While Rolex may have nabbed the moniker ‘President’ for themselves, Vulcain’s own White House legacy dates back to the 1940s and the creation of the Cricket Watch.
First launched in 1947, the Cricket was the first successful alarm wristwatch – yes, before even Jaeger-LeCoultre. There had been attempts by other watchmakers in the past, but Vulcain’s was the one loud and reliable enough to be considered a replacement for a travel clock. There was an instantaneous waitlist from pilots, travelling salesmen and anyone that wanted to downsize their necessary noisemaker into a handsome wristwatch.
The crucial factor in the creation of this calibre was that watchmakers from Vulcain worked with scientists to better understand the nature of acoustics and make the Cricket alarm loud enough to consistently wake its owner. It was loud enough in fact to be brought to the attention of then president Harry S. Truman. If there’s anyone that can’t afford to sleep in, it’s a US president.
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Following in Truman’s wake, Eisenhower, Johnson and Nixon all had Cricket watches while they were in office. Vulcain watches were a common sight (and sound) in the White House from 1945 to 1974. Lyndon B Johnson was enough of a fan that he regularly gifted Vulcain timepieces to his staff – which perhaps says more than it should about his staff’s timekeeping. It’s enough of a political relationship that the Vulcain Cricket is just as often referred to as “the watch of the Presidents.”
Nearly half a century on and modern Vulcain too is dominated by the aesthetics of the Cricket, this time in the form of the 50s Presidents’ Collection. There are a wide variety of styles, sizes and movements available. Cases range from 39mm to 42mm, and the majority are stainless steel with a few gold special editions sprinkled into the mix. No matter the reference, they all retain the same smooth, round design with a fluted crown and mushroom pushers.
The dials feature a number of colours and finishes including blue, black and silver sunray brushing, and intricate guilloché patterns. Naturally, the layout of the dial is determined by each watch’s functions. The majority of watches in the 50s Presidents’ Collection feature the classic alarm complication, but others also introduce chronographs, moonphases and simple time and date variants.
Outside of the 50s President, which is largely a dress watch, Vulcain also produce a range of sporty alternatives. The Aviator Instrument uses a Cricket base to create a technical looking pilot’s watch with a world time function. Then for underwater activities there’s the Nautical Seventies collection, featuring bold shapes and colourful decompression tables. They also dabble in haute horology with tourbillons and métiers d’art with enamel artwork dials.
At their core however, Vulcain is a watchmaker inextricably linked with their White House history, a brand built on their relationship with the hallowed halls of power and the alarm complication that sounded through them.
More details at Vulcan.
